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EUI W O R K I N G PAPER No. 86/205
THE ORGANISATION OF BUSINESS INTERESTS
The Case o f the Italian T extile and Clothing Industry
by
Antonio M u m / Nicolö A
ddario/ Paolo S
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EUROPEAN UNIVERSITY INSTITUTE, FLORENCE
DEPARTMENT OF POLITICAL AND SOCIAL SCIENCES
EUI W O R K I N G PAPER No. 86/205
THE ORGANISATION OF BUSINESS INTERESTS
The Case o f the Italian T extile and Clothing Industry
by
Antonio M u rn / Nicolö A
ddario/ Paolo S
egatti©
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This paper should not be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior permission of the author
(c) Antonio MUTTI
Nicolò ABDARIO Paolo SEGATTI Printed in Italy in January 1986
Badia Fiesolana
50016 San Domenico di Fiesole (FI) ITALY
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THE O R G A N I S A T I O N O F B U S I N E S S I N T E R E S T S (The c a s e at t h e I t a l i a n t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y ) b y A n t o n i o M u t t i N i c o l a A d d a r i o P a o l o S e g a t t i
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i m i x I N T R O D U C T I O N ... p a g e 3 C H A R A C T E R I S T I C S O F T H E T E X T I L E A N D C L O T H I N G I N D U S T R Y ... " 7 S E C T O R A L A S S O C I A T I O N S ... • 18 E c o n o m i c an d o r g a n i s a t i o n a l a c t i o n ... " 19 A c t i o n in t h e f i e l d of i n d u s t r i a l r e l a t i o n s . ... " 4 4 R e l a t i o n s w i t h t h e p o l i t i c a l s y s t e m ... " 4 7 C o n c l u s i o n s ... , . ... " 5 2 T E R R I T O R I A L A S S O C I A T I O N S ... w 5 6 B ie l l a ... n 5 7 P r a t o . ... . . . “ 6 3 V i c e n z a ... 41 7 0 B r e s c i a . ... u 7 7 C o n c l u s i o n s ... ... . . • ” 84 -2
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I N T R O D U C T I O N T h i s w o r k is p a r t of a m u c h g r e a t e r c o m p a r a t i v e i n t e r n a t i o n a l r e s e a r c h p r o j e c t o n t h e o r g a n i s a t i o n o-f b u s i n e s s i n t e r e s t s in t e n i n d u s t r i a l i s e d c o u n t r i e s d i r e c t e d b y A. M a r t i n e l l i , P. C. S c h m i t t e r a n d Wo S t r e e c k . T h e b a s i c q u e s t i o n w h i c h i n s p i r e d t h e r e s e a r c h w a s h o w t h e e n t r e p r e n e u r s ’ " n e e d " t o -form a n a s s o c i a t i o n a r i s e s . In o t h e r wo rd s, t h e q u e s t i o n is h o w a n d in w h a t a r e a s d o c o m m o n i n t e r e s t s a r i s e w h i c h lead t o -forms o-f c o - o p e r a t i o n . T h e c o r e o-f t h e r e s e a r c h is t h e r e f o r e t h e w a y in w h i c h e n t r e p r e n e u r s o r g a n i s e t h e i r c o m m o n i n t e r e s t s in e c o n o m i c , i n d u s t r i a l r e l a t i o n s a n d p o l i t i c a l f i e l d s . O b v i o u s l y , t h i s is a c o m p l e x a n d d e m a n d i n g m a t t e r g i v e n t h e h i g h l y s t r a t i f i e d a n d h e t e r o g e n e o u s n a t u r e o f e n t r e p r e n e u r s ’ i n t e r e s t s b o t h f r o m an e c o n o m i c , p o l i t i c a l a n d i d e o l o g i c a l s t a n d p o i n t a n d a s p a t i o - t e m p o r a l s t a n d p o i n t . T h e m e r e e x i s t e n c e of c o m m o n i n t e r e s t s d o e s n o t m e a n t h e y ar e a u t o m a t i c a l l y t u r n e d i n t o c o l l e c t i v e a c t i o n , a s M a n c u r O l s o n has c l e a r l y d e m o n s t r a t e d . A n o r g a n i s a t i o n a l s t r u c t u r e an d p o l i t i c a l e n t r e p r e n e u r s h i p a r e a l s o r e q u i r e d . T h e y m u s t b e a b l e to s t i m u l a t e i n d i v i d u a l c o m m i t m e n t t o t h e c o l l e c t i v e w e l l - b e i n g a n d o f f s e t t h e p h e n o m e n o n of " f r e e r i d i n g ” . A n o r g a n i s a t i o n a l s t r u c t u r e c a n i n t e r v e n e in m a t t e r s of c o m m o n i n t e r e s t by r e d e f i n i n g t h e m , r e s h a p i n g t h e m a n d s t r e n g t h e n i n g t he m. M o r e o v e r , th e i n t e r e s t s a r e n o t f i x e d or g i v e n o n c e a n d f o r all b y t h e e c o n o m i c s t r u c t u r e , b u t a r e d e t e r m i n e d in a c o m p l e x w a y b y a n u m b e r o f f a c t o r s : s o c i o - e c o n o m i c , h i s t o r i c a l , p o l i t i c a l a n d i n t r a - o r g a n i s a t i o n a l .
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P l a c i n g t h e d i s c u s s i o n a b o u t (-formal a n d i n f o r m a l ) o r g a n i s a t i o n a t t h e c e n t r e o-f t h e a n a l y s i s m e a n s t h a t w e m u s t e x a m i n e i n t r a - o r g a n i s a t i o n a l a n d i n t e r - o r g a n i s a t i o n a 1 p r o b l e m s . C e r t a i n l y , t h e d e g r e e of a u t o n o m y a c h i e v e d b y a r e p r é s e n t a t i o n s y s t e m is c r u c i a l . O u r p r o b l e m is t h e r e f o r e t o a s s e s s t h e d e g r e e of a u t o n o m y p r o p e r l y . T h e e m p h a s i s p l a c e d o n r e p r e s e n t a t i o n a l a u t o n o m y is j u s t i f i e d b y a n o t h e r r e q u i r e m e n t u n d e r l y i n g t h i s in t e r n a t i o n a l c o m p a r a t i v e r e s e a r c h , n a m e l y , a s s e s s i n g w h e t h e r t h e r e a r e a l s o t r e n d s t o w a r d s c o r p o r a t i i t s t r u c t u r e s a n d s y s t e m s a m o n g e n t r e p r e n e u r i a l o r g a n i s a t i o n s . T h i s h o l d s t r u e b o t h f o r i n d u s t r i a l r e l a t i o n s a n d p o l i t i c a l e x c h a n g e s w i t h t h e S t a t e a n d for m e c h a n i s m s (as r e g a r d s i n p u t a n d o u t p u t ) r e g u l a t i n g t h e m a r k e t a n d s e c t o r . In t h e c a s e of I t a l y , s t u d y i n g t h e t e r r i t o r i a l p o w e r r e l a t i o n s h i p s b e t w e e n c e n t r e a n d p e r i p h e r y in t h e o r g a n i s a t i o n of e n t r e p r e n e u r s ’ i n t e r e s t s , o r r a t h e r b e t w e e n S e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n s ( f u n c t i o n a l , v e r t i c a l r e p r e s e n t a t i o n ) a n d t e r r i t o r i a l a s s o c i a t i o n s ( h o r i z o n t a l r e p r e s e n t a t i o n ) is of p a r a m o u n t i m p o r t a n c e . Is t h e r e a re al d i v i s i o n of t a s k s b e t w e e n t h e s e t w o f o r m s of a s s o c i a t i o n , or is t h e r e a c o n f u s i n g o v e r l a p of f u n c t i o n s ? Is t h e strength of a s s o c i a t i o n s p a r t l y m i t i g a t e d by the s l o w and l a b o r i o u s d e v e l o p m e n t of s e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n s o r n o t ? T h e s e c t o r w e h a v e c h o s e n t o a n a l y s e is i n t e r e s t i n g for b o t h p r o d u c t i o n a n d o r g a n i s a t i o n a l r e a s o n s . F r o m à p r o d u c t i o n s t a n d p o i n t , a f t e r . t h e c r i s i s in t h e S i x t i e s a n d S e v e n t i e s , the t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g s & c t o r is c u r r e n t l y u n d e r g o i n g a n e c o n o m i c r e v i v a l t h a n k s t o t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n of n e w t e c h n o l o g i e s , r.aw 4
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c o m m e r c i a l t e c h n i q u e s s t y l i n g i n n o v a t i o n s a n d g r e a t s t r i d e s in th e d e c e n t r a l i s a t i o n of p r o d u c t i o n . H e n c e t h e i n t e r e s t in a s s e s s i n g h o w -far t h e a s s o c i a t i o n s t r u c t u r e ( bo th s e c t o r a l a n d t e r r i t o r i a l ) is r e l a t e d t o t h e s e c h a n g e s . H a s it e n c o u r a g e d t h e m ? H a s it h i n d e r e d t h e m ? O r h a s it p l a y e d n o s i g n i f i c a n t r o l e at al l? F r o m an o r g a n i s a t i o n a l s t a n d p o i n t , a s i g n i f i c a n t i n n o v a t i o n o c c u r r e d in t h e S e v e n t i e s , n a m e l y t h e b i r t h o-f t h e F e d e r t e s s i l e . T h i s a p p e a r a n c e r a i s e s t h e i m p o r t a n t q u e s t i o n o-f w h y a n d h o w a S e c o n d - o r d e r s e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n t a k e s s h a p e a n d a c h i e v e s o r g a n i s a t i o n a l a u t o n o m y -from t h e m e m b e r a s s o c i a t i o n s . T h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y is c h a r a c t e r i s e d b y a ni gh t e r r i t o r i a l c o n c e n t r â t ion i n t o " s y s t e m a r e a s " w i t h a v e r y high d e g r e e of s p e c i a l i s a t i o n . V e r y o f t e n t h e r e is a d e f a c t o o v e r l a p b e t w e e n s e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n s a n d t e r r i t o r i a l a s s o c i a t i o n s .which m a k e s i n t e r e s t i n g o b s e r v a t i o n s a n d a s s e s s m e n t s o n t h e r e l a t i o n s b e t w e e n c e n t r e a n d p e r i p h e r y in t h e a s s o c i a t i o n s 5 s t r u c t u r e p o s s i b l e . S i n c e w e d i d n o t h a v e s u f f i c i e n t r e s o u r c e s a v a i l a b l e to c a r r y o u t a b l a n k e t s u r v e y of t h e s e c t o r , a n u m b e r of d e c i s i o n s had t o b e t a k e n . W e d e c i d e d , f i r s t of all , t o c o n s i d e r o n l y m e m b e r a s s o c i a t i o n s of t h e C o n f i n d u s t r i a s y s t e m , g i v e n t h e i r c e n t r a l i t y in t h e r e p r é s e n t â t i o n a l s y s t e m of s e c t o r a l i n t e r e s t s . A s r e g a r d s n a t i o n a l s e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n s , in a d d i t i o n t o t h e F e d e r t e s s l l e ^ • ***© a n a l y s e d t h e f o u r a f f i l i a t e s ( c o t t o n , w o o l , k n i t w e a r a n d ho si er y, c l o t h i n g ) w h i c h a s r e g a r d s t h e i r s i g n i f i c a n c e w i t h i n t h e E ë d e r t e s s i 1e ( t h e y m a k e u p 8 0 % of t h e c o n t r ib u t i o n s p a i d infco th© F e d e r t e s s i l e a n d h e n c e 8 0 % of v o t e s in £is d e c i s i o n - m a k i n g
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b o d i e s ) a n d a s r e g a r d s t h e n u m b e r o-f e m p l o y e e s a n d p e r c e n t a g e of t o t a l s e c t o r a l g r o s s p r o d u c t , a r e t h e b u l k o-f t h e I t a l i a n t e x t i l e c h a i n . A s r e g a r d s t e r r i t o r i a l a s s o c i a t i o n s , e x c l u d i n g k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y , w h i c h is t h e s e c t o r t h a t is m a s t t e r r i t o r i a l l y d i s p e r s e d , w e d e c i d e d t o l o o k at B i e l la (w o o l ) , P r a t o (wool), V i c e n z a ( c l o t h i n g ) a n d B r e s c i a ( c o t t o n ) . A s w e l l a s b e i n g -fairly r e p r e s e n t a t i v e , t er r i t o r i a 1 1 y - s p e a k i n g , o-f t h e s e c t o r s c ho se n, t h i s d e c i s i o n m a k e s it p o s s i b l e t o c o m p a r e o r g a n i s a t i o n a l r e a l i t i e s in t h r e e h i g h l y - c o n t r a s t i v e a r e a s a s r e g a r d s so c i a l b a c k g r o u n d : c e n t r a l a n d p e r i p h e r a l i n d u s t r i a l a r e a s , C a t h o l i c and C o m m u n i s t s u b c u l t u r e a r e a s . T h e r e s e a r c h w h i c h t o o k p l a c e b e t w e e n J u n e 1 9 8 3 a n d J u n e 1 9 8 5 w a s e s s e n t i a l l y b a s e d on an a n a l y s i s o-f t h e s o u r c e s m a d e a v a i l a b l e b y t h e a s s o c i a t i o n s a n d b y 5 0 i n - d e p t h i n t e r v i e w s wi th o-f-ficials o-f t h e s e c t o r a l a n d t e r r i t o r i a l a s s o c i a t i o n s . The i n f o r m a t i o n g a t h e r e d h a s g i v e n s u f f i c i e n t d a t a to p r o v i d e the f i r s t o v e r a l l a s s e s s m e n t of t h e a c t i o n u n d e r t a k e n b y b o t h n a t i o n a l s e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n s a n d t e r r i t o r i a l a s s o c i a t i o n s in the o r g a n i s a t i o n a l , e c o n o m i c , p o l i t i c a l a n d i n d u s t r i a l r e l a t i o n s f i e l d s in t h e p e r i o d b e t w e e n 1 9 6 1 a n d 1983. T h e r e s e a r c h w a s f i n a n c e d b y t h e I t a l i a n M i n i s t r y of E d u c a t i o n ( 4 0 % f u n d ) . -6
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C H A R A C T E R I S T I C S O F T H E I T A L I A N T E X T I L E A N D C L O T H I N G S E C T O R A n y d i s c u s s i o n o n t h e e c o n o m i c a n d s t r u c t u r a l c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s of t h e I t a l i a n t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g s e c t o r r e q u i r e s f i r s t of all s o m e c o n s i d é r â t ion of t h e c h a n g e s in t h e i n t e r n a t i o n a l d i v i s i o n of l a b o u r w h i c h m a r k e d t h e s i x t i e s a n d s e v e n t i e s . In t h i s p e r i o d t h e r e w a s a r e d u c t i o n in t h e s i z e of t h e total t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y a s c o m p a r e d w i t h t h e t o t a l w o r l d m a n u f a c t u r i n g p r o d u c t i o n . A d d e d t o t h i s p r o c e s s w a s a h e a v y t e n d e n c y f o r t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y to b e c o m e b a s e d in u n d e r d e v e l o p e d c o u n t r i e s , a n d to a l e s s e r e x t e n t , in E a s t e r n E u r o p e a n c o u n t r i e s . I n d u s t r i a l i s e d c o u n t r i e s t h u s e n d e d u p l o s i n g l ar ge q u a n t i t i e s of w o r l d e x p o r t s t o t h e a d v a n t a g e of d e v e l o p i n g c o u n t r i e s , p a r t i c u l a r l y as r e g a r d s c l o t h i n g an d c o t t o n f i b r e s . G r o w t h in t h e s e c o u n t r i e s of t h e t e x t i l e i n d u s t r y is p a r t l y t h e p r o d u c t of t h e d e v e l o p m e n t of a n a t i o n a l t e x t i l e i n d u s t r y a nd p a r t l y t h e e f f e c t of d i r e c t i n v e s t m e n t s of m u l t i n a t i o n a l e n t e r p r i s e s (in p a r t i c u l a r A m e r i c a n , J a p a n e s e , G e r m a n an d B r i t i s h ) i.e. t h e e f f e c t of p r o d u c t i o n d e c e n t r a l i s a t i o n in c o u n t r i e s w i t h l owe r l a b o u r c o s t s t h a n i n d u s t r i a l i s e d c o u n t r i e s . A n o t h e r c h a r a c t e r i s t i c of t h e i n t e r n a t i o n a l d e v e l o p m e n t of t h i s s e c t o r is th e s t e a d y r e p l a c e m e n t of n a t u r a l f i b r e s b y c h e m i c a l f i b r e s and, in p a r t i c u l a r , b y s y n t h e t i c fibres. In t h e t e c h n o l o g i c a l f i e l d , t h e p r o d u c t i o n c y c l e is b e c o m i n g s h o r t e r (by the merging of a n u m b e r of o p e r a t i o n s ) , in p a r t i c u l a r in t h e s p i n n i n g a n d h o s i e r y fiei'ds. It is p o s s i b l e to i m a g i n e t h a t , in t h e l o n g run , t h e i n t e r n a t i o n a l d i v i s i o n of 7
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l a b o u r in t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y w i l l b e m a r k e d by d i f f e r e n t t y p e s of s p e c i a l i s a t i o n a m o n g i n d u s t r i al i s e d c o u n t r i e s a n d d e v e l o p i n g c o u n t r i e s . T h e l a t t e r w i l l t o t u r n t o w a r d s h e a v i l y - s t a n d a r d i s e d m a s s — p r o d u c t i o n (as r e g a r d s c l o t h i n g and t a i l o r e d a r t i c l e s ) a n d t o w a r d s t r a d i t i o n a l t e x t i l e s . I n d u s t r i a l i s e d c o u n t r i e s , o n t h e o t h e r h a n d , a s r e g a r d s c l o t h i n g w i l l t e n d t o s p e c i a l i s e in h i g h l y d i v e r s i f i e d i t e m s n o t p r o d u c e d b y m a s s — p r o d u c t i o n a n d a s r e g a r d s t e x t i l e s , a s w e l l a s in p r o d u c t i o n w h i c h p e r m i t s a h i g h d e g r e e of d i v e r s i f i c a t i o n , will t e n d t o s p e c i a l i s e in t h e n e w s e c t o r s w h i c h a r e o p e n i n g up ( t e x t i l e p r o d u c t i o n f o r t e c h n i c a l a n d i n d u s t r i a l uses, p a r t i c u l a r l y s y n t h e t i c l e a t h e r a n d s o - c a l l e d “n o n - c l o t h s " , for e x a m p l e , f i l t e r s a n d w a l l c o v e r i n g s ) . T h e r i s e of n e w a g g r e s s i v e a n d u n s c r u p u l o u s c o m p e t i t o r s on t h e w o r l d m a r k e t h a s led t o t h e " d i s o r g a n i s a t i o n " of i n d u s t r i a l i s e d c o u n t r i e s ’ , m a r k e t s a n d s e r i o u s p r o b l e m s of e m p l o y m e n t . T h e D e B a n d t (1) r e p o r t , d r a w n u p b y t h e E E C in 1969, r e a c h e d t h e c o n c l u s i o n t h a t t h e t e x t i l e s e c t o r w a s r e a d y to be d i s m a n t l e d a n d l e f t t o d e v e l o p i n g c o u n t r i e s . D e s p i t e t h i s , w i t h a v i e w t o e n s u r i n g "an o r d e r l y a n d f a i r d e v e l o p m e n t " (2) of i n t e r n a t i o n a l t r a d e in t e x t i l e s , t h e A M F ( M u l t i f i b r e A g r e e m e n t ) w a s s t i p u l a t e d o n D e c e m b e r 2 0 t h , 1973. T h i s wa s a m u l t i l a t e r a l a g r e e m e n t s i g n e d b y v i r t u a l l y a ll t h e c o u n t r i e s in t h e world i n t e r e s t e d in t h i s t r a d e . T h e A M F w h i c h w a s an e x p r e s s i o n of GATT a n d its p e r m a n e n t i n s t i t u t i o n s , w a s t h e s u c c e s s o r to the " L o n g - t e r m a g r e e m e n t o n i n t e r n a t i o n a l c o m m e r c e of c o t t o n textil es " (ALT) w h i c h w a s s i g h e d o n 1 / 1 0 / 1 9 6 2 a n d r e n e w e d t h r e e t i m e s in the p e r i o d 1 9 6 2 - 1 9 7 3 . T h e n e w a g r e e m e n t m a i n t a i n e d t h e m a i n concepts 1 8
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of A L T b u t e x t e n d e d it s a p p l i c a t i o n t o o t h e r t e x t i l e p r o d u c t s (yarn a n d t e x t i l e s m a d e w i t h n a t u r a l a n d c h e m i c a l f i b r e s ) ¡, k n i t w e a r a n d c l o t h i n g . T h e a g r e e m e n t , w h i c h c a m e i n t o -force on J a n u a r y 1st, 19 74 a n d w h i c h l a p s e d on D e c e m b e r 3 i s t , 1977, p r o v i d e d -for t h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t of b i l a t e r a l a g r e e m e n t s b e t w e e n p r o d u c e r a n d p u r c h a s i n g c o u n t r i e s on t h e m a x i m u m y e a r l y q u o t a s f o r i m p o r t s of s p e c i f i c p r o d u c t s l a b e l l e d " s e n s i t i v e " . D u r i n g t h e p e r i o d w h e n t h e a g r e e m e n t w a s i m p l e m e n t e d t h e EEC w a s h i t b y an e x p l o s i v e i n c r e a s e in t h e i m p o r t a t i o n of “s e n s i t i v e " p r o d u c t s b e c a u s e , u n l i k e t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , it w a s u n a b l e to d r a w up a s u f f i c i e n t n u m b e r of b i l a t e r a l a g r e e m e n t s in a s h o r t s p a c e of ti me, w h e r e b y t h e s u p p l i e r c o u n t r i e s a g r e e d to v o l u n t a r y l i m i t a t i o n s on t h e i r e x p o r t s (p a r t i c u 1a r 1y d e v e l o p i n g c o u n t r i e s w i t h l a w - c o s t p r o d u c t i o n ) . D u r i n g t h e n e g o t i a t i o n s f o r t h e r e n e w a l of t h e a g r e e m e n t (which was s i g n e d on 3 1 / 1 2 / 1 9 7 7 , came into force as. f r o m 1 / 1 / 1 9 7 8 a nd la ps ed on 3 1 / 1 2 / 8 1 ) , t h e C o m m u n i t y e x p l i c i t l y s t a t e d to t h e G A T T T e x t i l e C o m m i t t e e (G e n e v a ) that it would make its agreement ta r e n e w t h e M u l t i f i b r e A g r e e m e n t c o n d i t i o n a l on t h e s i g n a t u r e of a l a r g e n u m b e r of b i l a t e r a l a g r e e m e n t s w i t h e x p o r t e r c o u n t r i e s s a t i s f y i n g its p a r t i c u l a r r e q u i r e m e n t s i n c l u d i n g s p e c i a l p r o v i s i o n s f o r p a r t i c u l a r l y s e n s i t i v e p r o d u c t s , a n d o n a m i n i m u m a n n u a l g r o w t h r a t e of 6 % of i m p o r t s e s t a b l i s h e d u n d e r t h e A M F . W h e n t h e b i l a t e r a l n e g o t i a t i o n s r e a c h e d t h e s e o b j e c t i v e s , t h e E E C d r o p p e d its r e s e r v a t i o n ^ . T h e t h i r d A M F w a s r e n e w e d on 3 1 / 1 2 / 1 9 8 1 , c a m e i n t o f o r c e on 1 / 1 / 1 9 8 2 a n d l a p s e s o n 3 1 / 1 2 / 1 9 8 6 . -9
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B u t let u s ' n o w t u r n t o t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t in I t a l y p r e s e n t i n g a f e w d a t a f r o m c e n s u s e s of l oc al p r o d u c t i u n i t s a n d n u m b e r of e m p l o y e e s . L O C A L U N I T S 196 1 1 9 7 1 % C h a n g e 1 9 8 1 % C h a n g e T E X T I L E S : 2 2 , 0 3 6 2 6 , 5 5 9 + 2 0 . 3 % 2 9 , 3 9 7 + 4 3 . 3 % W o o l 9 , 9 8 4 1 2 , 5 0 6 + 2 5 . 7 % 1 4 , 9 4 4 + 1 9 . 5 % C o t t o n 3, 139 2, 4 5 8 - 2 1 . 7 % 2 , 3 2 9 - 5 . 2 % S i l k 1 , 6 4 1 5 9 1 - 6 4 . 0 % 1 , 2 3 7 + 1 0 9 . 4 % K N I T W E A R A N D H O S I E R Y 2 2 , 3 6 5 2 1 , 6 0 0 -3. 4 % 3 0 , 6 6 5 + 4 1 . 9 % C L O T H I N G 1 1 8 , 7 0 3 3 2 , 3 2 8 - 3 0 . 6 % 7 6 , 4 4 7 -7. 1% E M P L O Y E E S T E X T I L E S : 4 7 3 , 9 7 5 3 4 4 , 4 5 4 - 2 7 . 3 % 3 1 5 , 0 8 9 - 3 . 5 % W o o 1 1 4 7 , 7 1 7 1 1 7 , 9 6 3 - 2 0 . 1 % 1 0 1 , 2 3 2 - 1 4 . 2 % C o t t o n 1 7 8 , 2 5 2 1 1 5 , 0 8 6 - 3 5 . 4 % 7 8 , 6 6 3 - 3 1 . 6 % Si lk 5 0 , 4 0 6 1 6 , 3 7 4 - 6 6 . 5 % 2 8 , 8 4 0 + 7 0 . 9 % K N I T W E A R A N D H O S I E R Y 1 2 4 , 5 9 0 1 6 2 , 2 0 1 + 3 0 . 2 % 1 7 8 , 3 3 4 + 9 . 9 % C L O T H I N G 3 3 9 , 0 3 4 3 6 3 , 8 6 8 + 7 . 3 % 4 2 6 , 1 6 7 + 1 7 . 1 % S o u r c e ; Ï S T A T , I n d u s t r i a l a n d c o m m e r c i a l c e n s u s f o r 19 61, 1971, 1981. 1 0
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As o n e c a n s e e , in t e x t i l e s , a g a i n s t an i n c r e a s e i n t h e n u m b e r of local u n its, b o t h in t h e 1 9 6 1 - 1 9 7 1 p e r i o d a nd i n t h e 1 9 7 1 - 1 9 8 1 p e r i o d t h e r e w a s a d e c r e a s e in e m p l o y m e n t a n d a c o n s e q u e n t d r o p in t h e a v e r a g e n u m b e r o-f e m p l o y e e s p e r local u ni te T h i s is t r u e in p a r t i c u l a r t o r w o o l , b u t a l s o t o r c o t t o n a n d s i l k w h e r e t h e -fall in l oc al u n i t s is a c c o m p a n i e d b y a m o r e t h a n p r o p o r t i o n a l r e d u c t i o n in e m p l o y e e s (-for s i l k b e t w e e n 197 1 a n d 1981 t h e r e w a s an i n c r e a s e in l o c a l u n i t s , b u t a l e s s t h a n p r o p o r t i o n a l i n c r e a s e in e m p l o y e e s c o n - f ir mi ng th e t e n d e n c y t o r the a v e r a g e n u m b e r ot e m p l o y e e s t o t a l l p e r l oc al u n i t ) . T h e tal l in e m p l o y m e n t d e r i v e s t r a m a r e d u c t i o n in e m p l o y e e s w o r k i n g t o r m e d i u m - s i z e d a n d l a r g e l o ca l u n i t s ( m o r e t h a n a 100 e m p l o y e e s ) , w h i c h is n o t s u t t i c i e n t l y c o m p e n s a t e d t o r by an i n c r e a s e in e m p l o y m e n t t h a t has, on t h e c o n t r a r y , t a k e n p l a c e in u n i t s b e l o n g i n g t o l o w e r c l a s s e s . In t h e d e c a d e s r u n n i n g f r o m 19 61 to 197 1 an d 1971 to 1981, t h e r e w a s a d e c r e a s e in t h e n u m b e r of l o c a l u n i t s in t h e c l o t h i n g i n du st ry , b u t an i n c r e a s e in e m p l o y m e n t a n d h e n c e an i n c r e a s e in the a v e r a g e n u m b e r of e m p l o y e e s p e r l oc al u ni t . If, h o w e v e r , we e x c l u d e f r o m t h e s e c t o r " t a i l o r - m a d e m a n u f a c t u r i n g " (i.e. m i c r o u n i t s of 1 or 2 e m p l o y e e s , m a d e u p of t a i l o r s w h o s e n u m b e r s have b e e n d r a s t i c a l l y r e d u c e d in t h e las t d e c a d e ) a n d if w e c o n s i d e r o n l y t h e p e r f o r m a n c e of t h e i n d u s t r y in t h e s t r i c t s e n s e , in t h e p e r i o d 1971 t o 1 9 81 , t h e r e w a s a 2 8 . 6 % i n c r e a s e in t h e n u mb er of e m p l o y e e s a n d a m a r e t h a n p r o p o r t i o n a l i n c r e a s e in t h e num be r of lo cal u n i t s e q u a l t o 1 9 3 . 5 % . H e n c e , t h e r e w a s a s i z e a b l e r e d u c t i o n in t h e e m p l o y e e s - t o - l o c a l u n i t s r a t i o . T y p i c a l -1 1
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l o c a l - u n i t d i m e n s i o n c h a n g e d f r o m b e t w e e n 1 0 0 a n d 4 9 9 e m p l o y e e s to b e t w e e n 10 a n d 4 9 e m p l o y e e s < 3 ) . In t h e d e c a d e b e t w e e n 1 9 7 1 a n d 1981, k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y t e n d e d to d e c r e a s e t h e r a t i o of e m p l o y e e s p e r l oc al u n i t . A l o n g s i d e t h e i n c r e a s e in l oc al u n i t s , t h e r e w a s a l e s s t h a n p r o p o r t i o n a l i n c r e a s e in e m p l o y e e s . T h e c e n s u s d a t a t h e r e f o r e s h o w t h a t t h e r e is a t e n d e n c y to d e c r e a s e t h e a v e r a g e s i z e (per e m p l o y e e s ) o-f l oc al u n i t s . T h e y s ho w, m o r e o v e r , t h a t t h e " v a s t m a j o r i t y o-f l o c a l t e x t i l e u n i t s and e v e n m o r e so in c l o t h i n g b e l o n g t o t h e 1 - t o - 9 - e m p 1 o y e e s c l a s s ( c r a- ft sm an ’s a c t i v i t i e s ) , w h i l e t h e n u m b e r o-f e m p l o y e e s w h i c h r e l a t e s t o t h i s is n a t u r a l l y m u c h s m a l l e r . . . T h e t ecltnol o g i cal c o n c e n t r a t i o n is m u c h h i g h e r in t h e t e x t i l e s e c t o r t h a n t he c l o t h i n g s e c t o r , w h i l e w e f i n d t h a t a m o n g t h e t e x t i l e s e c t o r s the h i g h e r r a t i o is f o r c o t t o n , f o l l o w e d , in o r d e r b y c h e m i c a l f i b r e p r o d u c t s , ‘ w oo l, k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y , s i l k ... C l o t h i n g is t e r r i t o r i a l l y m u c h l e s s c o n c e n t r a t e d t h a n t e x t i l e s . . . . T h e m o s t t e r r i t o r i al 11y c o n c e n t r a t e d s e c t o r s a r e w o o l , f o l l o w e d b y silk. T h e l e a s t c o n c e n t r a t e d s e c t o r is t h e k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y s e c t o r " (4). W e a r e t h e r e f o r e f a c e d w i t h a p r e v a i l i n g l y s m a l 1 - t o - m e d i u m s i z e d i n d u s t r y w i t h a s t r o n g t e r r i t o r i a l c o n c e n t r a t i o n , in p a r t i c u l a r in l oc al a r e a s w i t h a h i g h d e g r e e of s p e c i a l i s a t i o n . L o m b a r d y , P i e d m o n t , t h e V e n e t o , T u s c a n y a n d E m i l i a - R o m a g n a , in the 1981 i n d u s t r i a l c e n s u s a c c o u n t e d f o r 8 5 % of t e x t i l e e m p l o y e e s and 6 6 % of c l o t h i n g e m p l o y e e s . W i t h i n t h e s e r e g i o n s t h e r e are m o n o c u l t u r a l a r e a s : B i e l l a (w o o l ) , P r a t o (w o o l ) , B u s t o A r s i z i o ( c o t t o n ) , C o m o (s ilk). C a r p i ( k i t w e a r ) , V i c e n z a ( c l o t h i n g ) . T h e 1981 i n d u s t r i a l c e n s u s a l s o r e v e a l s t h a t t h e t e x t i l e -1 2
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and c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y o c c u p i e s a b o u t 1 3 % of t o t a l e m p l o y e e s in t h e m a n u f a c t u r i n g s e c t o r . In t h e t w e n t y y e a r p e r i o d 1 9 6 1 - 1 9 8 1 e m p l o y m e n t l e v e l s r e m a i n e d r e m a r k a b l y s t a b l e a s c o m p a r e d w i t h o t h e r E E C c o u n t r i e s w h e r e t h e r e w a s a s i z e a b l e d e c r e a s e ^ in p a r t i c u l a r in B e l g i u m , H o l l a n d , G r e a t B r i t a i n a n d G e r m a n y . T h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g s e c t o r ’s G D P is a b o u t 1 0 % of total m a n u f a c t u r i n g G D P w h i c h h e l d u p w e l l in t h e 1 9 6 1 - 1 9 8 1 p e r i o d (u n l i k e o t h e r E E C c o u n t r i e s ) . T h e d i s t r i b u t i o n of t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g G D P in 1981 in t h e v a r i o u s s e c t o r s was; c l o t h i n g 31 . 5 % ; c o t t o n 17. 5% ; w o o l 1 4 . 7 % ; k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y 14. 2% 5 o t h e r t e x t i l e s 11. 4% ; c h e m i c a l f i b r e s 4 . 7 % ; s i l k 4 . 1 % ; l i n e n - h e m p 1.9%. In 198 1 k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y p l a y e d an i n c r e a s i n g l y c e n t r a l r o l e in e x p o r t s t r u c t u r e s ( 2 8 . 9 % of t o t a l v a l u e of e x p o r t s in t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g s e c t o r ) f o l l o w e d by c l o t h i n g (24. 3% ), c h e m i c a l f i b r e c l o t h a n d y a r n , w h i l e n a t u r a l f i b r e y a r n a n d c l o t h lost g r o u n d . As c o m p a r e d w i t h o t h e r E E C c o u n t r i e s , t e x t i l e e x p o r t s w e r e m u c h l o w e r b u t k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y m u c h h i g h e r . 3 5 % of t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g s e c t o r p r o d u c t s a r e e x p o r t e d . T h e E E C t a k e s 6 5% of t h e s e e x p o r t s , E F T A 1 1 % a n d t h e U S A 4%. T h e r e is, in a d d i t i o n , g r o w i n g c o m p e t i t i o n f r o m T h i r d W o r l d c o u n t r i e s , C h i n a and E a s t e r n E u r o p e a n c o u n t r i e s . A l s o in 1981, r a w t e x t i l e m a t e r i a l s t o o k p r i d e of p l a c e in i m p or ts w i t h 3 7 % of t h e t o t a l v a l u e of i m p o r t s in t h e t e x t i l e an d c l o t h i n g s e c t o r , f o l l o w e d b y c l o t h ( 19 .3 %) an d y a r n (1 6.1%) m a d e fr o m c o t t o n a n d o t h e r c h e m i c a l f i b r e s . A s c o m p a r e d w i t h o t h e r E E C c o u n t r i e s , I t a l i a n t e x t i l e i m p o r t s w e r e h i g h e r t h a n a v e r a g e fo r raw m a t e r i a l s b u t l e s s t h a n a v e r a g e f o r k n i t w e a r , h o s i e r y an d c l o t h i n g . 5 2 % of i m p o r t s c o m e f r o m t h e E E C , 9 % f r o m t h e USA, 8 % 1 3
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f r o m S o u t h E a s t A s i a a n d 5 . 5 % f r o m E a s t e r n E u r o p e . T h e b a l a n c e of t r a d e w a s f a v o u r a b l e a n d g r o w i n g in t h e S i x t i e s , f a v o u r a b l e b u t d e c l i n i n g (in c o s t a n t t e r m s , g r o w i n g in c u r r e n t v a l u e s ) in t h e t h e S e v e n t i e s f o r t e x t i l e s , f a v o u r a b l e an d g r o w i n g in b o t h t h e S i x t i e s a n d S e v e n t i e s f o r c l o t h i n g . T e c h n o 1o g i c a l i n n o v a t i o n s (in p a r t i c u l a r u p s t r e a m in t h e t e x t i l e c h a i n ) , c o m m e r c i a l a n d d e s i g n i n n o v a t i o n s a n d p r o c e s s e s of p r o d u c t i o n d e c e n t r a l i s a t i o n (in p a r t i c u l a r d o w n s t r e a m ) made t h i s g e n e r a l l y b e t t e r p e r f o r m a n c e of t h e I t a l i a n t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y p o s s i b l e as c o m p a r e d wi t h o t h e r EEC c o u n t r i e s . T h e S t a t e ’s i n t e r v e n t i o n in t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y b e c a m e p a r t i c u l a r l y s i g n i f i c a n t f r o m t h e S i x t i e s o n w a r d s a n d f r o m 1 9 6 9 o n w a r d s in p a r t i c u l a r , i.e. f r o m t h e t i m e w h e n the s e c t o r r a n i n t o a c r i s i s . S t a t e i n v o l v e m e n t b e c a m e v e r y m a r k e d in t h e p e r i o d 1 9 7 3 - 1 9 7 5 w h e n t h e e c o n o m i c s i t u a t i o n w a s v e r y a d v e r s e b e c a u s e of t h e oil c r i s i s . T h e S t a t e i n t e r v e n e d in s u p p o r t of t h e s e c t o r w i t h b o t h d i r e c t a n d i n d i r e c t i n s t r u m e n t s . T h e i n d i r e c t i n s t r u m e n t s w e r e the 1971 " L e g g e t e s s i l e " a n d t h e 1 9 7 8 " P r o g r a m m a f i n a l i z z a t o p e r il s i s t e m a d e l l a m o d a " . T h e d i r e c t i n s t r u m e n t s w e r e T E S C O N a n d GEPI (5) . T h e " L e g g e t e s s i l e " of 1 / 1 2 / 1 9 7 1 n o . 1 10 1, w h i c h w a s p a r t l y r e f i n a n c e d in 19 76, b r i n g i n g t h e o v e r a l l f i n a n c e t o 2 2 5 b i l l i o n L i r e , p r o v i d e d f o r t h r e e t y p e s of i n c e n t i v e : 1) s p e c i a l f i n a n c e f o r t e x t i l e i n d u s t r i e s w h i c h c a r r i e d o u t r e s t r u c t u r i n g , r e o r g a n i s a t i o n a n d r a t i o n a l i s a t i o n at a 4 % i n t e r e s t r a t e f o r a m a x i m u m p e r i o d of 15 y e a r s , 2) s u b s i d i s e d f i n a n c e f o r i n d u s t r i a l i n i t i a t i v e s in t h e t e x t i l e a r e a s , w i t h t h e s a m e c o n d i t i o n s as 1 4
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a b o v e ; 3) t a x r e d u c t i o n s . T h e -fi nancing wa s, in a c t u a l f a ct , c o n c e n t r a t e d in p a r t i c u l a r in t h e c o t t o n , w o o l a n d c l o t h i n g s e c t o r s . B e c a u s e of th e w a y in w h i c h t h e s t a t u t e w a s d r a f t e d , it w o u l d s e e m to h a v e f a v o u r e d c a p i t a l - i n t e n s i v e s e c t o r s , i.e. s p i n n i n g a n d w e a v i n g . T h e “P r o g r a m m a f i n a l i z z a t o p e r il 5 i sterna d e l l a m o d a ® w a s a p p r o v e d b y t h e C I P I o n 2 1 / 1 2 / 1 9 7 8 , in c o m p l i a n c e w i t h a r t i c l e 2 of S t a t u t e 6 7 5 of A u g u s t 1 2t h, 1 9 7 7 ( C o n t r i b u t i o n s f o r i n d u s t r i a l r e s t r u c t u r i n g a n d r a t i o n a l i s a t i o n , a s t a t u t e w h i c h w a s d i v i d e d into " S e c t o r a l P l a n s ” f o r a t o t a l of 3 7 4 5 b i l l i o n L i r e w h i c h w a s r e f i n a n c e d in M a y 19 83, b r i n g i n g t h e t o t a l t o 5 3 0 0 b i l l i o n L i r e ) . T h i s " P r o g r a m m a " w a s d e s i g n e d to s t r e n g t h e n p r o d u c t i o n ’s c o m p e t i t i v e p o s i t i o n in t h e a l d e r t e x t i l e a r e a s , t o s a t i s f y e m p l o y m e n t n e e d s a n d t o i n c r e a s e t h e i n d u s t r i a l b a s e in S o u t h e r n Italy. W i t h a v i e w to i n c r e a s i n g t h e s y s t e m ’s c a p a c i t y to c o m p e t e and to i n c r e a s e e x p o r t s , t h e " P r o g r a m m a " lai d d o w n t h a t t h e F i n a n c e a n d F o r e i g n T r a d e M i n i s t r i e s s h o u l d e n c o u r a g e c a r e f u l co n t r o l o f i m p o r t s a n d i m p l e m e n t t h e M u l t i f i b r e A g r e e m e n t , d e f e n d I t a l i a n e x p o r t s , a n d e n c o u r a g e i n v e s t m e n t s d e s i g n e d b o t h to p r o m o t e f o r e i g n m a r k e t p e n e t r a t i o n a n d t o c r e a t e t r a d i n g s t r u c t u r e s a b r o a d . A s r e g a r d s i n d u s t r i a l p o l i c y , it w a s d e c i d e d that t h e I t a l i a n M i n i s t r y of I n d u s t r y s h o u l d d r a w u p p r o p o s a l s with a v i e w to m a k i n g u n i t c o s t p e r p r o d u c t c o m p e t i t i v e w i t h o t h e r E u r o p e a n c o u n t r i e s b y m a k i n g t h e c u r r e n t r e d u c t i o n in s o c i a l s e c u r i t y c o n t r i b u t i o n s f o r f e m a l e w a g e s p e r m a n e n t , s t r e n g t h e n i n g r e s e a r c h s t r u c t u r e s , a c t i v a t i n g i n i t i a t i v e s d e s i g n e d t o p r o m o t e “.made in I t a l y " p r o d u c t s a n d s e t t i n g u p a c o m m i s s i o n w i t h t h e t a s k of p r o p o s i n g m o r e a p p r o p r i a t e s o l u t i o n s f o r a m o r e c o r r e c t p o l i c y 1 5
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a s r e g a r d s S t a t e t e n d e r s . A m o n g d i r e c t S t a t e i n t e r v e n t i o n s w e s h o u l d m e n t i o n ; I R I ’s p u r c h a s e in 1 9 5 7 a i M a n i f at t u r e__ c o t o n i e r e m e r i d i o n a l i t t h è p u r c h a s e , a g a i n b y IRI, in i 9 6 0 of F a b b r i c o n e in P r a t o , E N I ’s p u r c h a s e in 1 9 6 2 of t h e L a n e r o s s i g r o u p . E N I * s p u r c h a s e of L a n e r o s s i c r e a t e d t h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t S t a t e "t e x t i le p o l e “ in t he S e v e n t i e s . In 1 96 9 , S t a t e i n t e r v e n t i o n a c q u i r e d t h e p r o p o r t i o n s of a r e s c u e o p e r a t i o n . In 1 9 6 9 a n d 1 9 7 0 L a n e r o s s i i n c o r p o r a t e d a n u m b e r of t e x t i l e i n d u s t r i e s w h i c h h a d f a l l e n o n h a r d t i m e s , a s a g a i n h a p p e n e d in 1 9 7 4 an d 1 9 7 5 w i t h t h e a r r i v a l of n e w c r i s e s . A ll t h i s c o m p l e x of i n d u s t r i e s w a s g r o u p e d t o g e t h e r in 1 9 7 4 in t h e P a r t e c i p a z i o n e __ M a n i f a t t u r e __ t e s s i 1 i_e c o n f e z i o n i T e s c o n, w h i c h wa s b r o k e n u p in 1978. At t h e b e g i n n i n g of t h e S e v e n t i e s , w i t h a w o r s e n i n g c r i s i s in m a n y s e c t o r s a n d m a n y i n d u s t r i e s , t h e t r a d i t i o n a l r e s c u e system, w h e r e b y S t a t e - f i n a n c e d c o m p a n i e s t o o k o v e r p r i v a t e c o m p a n i e s , b e c a m e l e s s a n d l e s s s a t i s f a c t o r y . In 1 9 7 1 t h e G E P I <6> w a s set up. T h i s is a S t a t e h o l d i n g w i t h t h e t a s k of b a i l i n g o u t c o m p a n i e s in d i f f i c u l t y , r e o r g a n i s i n g t h e m a n d r e s t o r i n g t h e m t o t h e p r i v a t e s e c t o r . G E P I ’s i n t e r v e n t i o n w a s l a r g e l y d i r e e ted t o w a r d s the t e x t ile s e c t o r a n d in p a r t i c u l a r t h e c l o t h i ng s e c t o r . Its i n t e r v e n t i o n in t h e t e x t i l e s e c t o r t o o k p l a c e in 1 9 7 1 - 1 9 7 2 p e r i o d , in t h e c l o t h i n g s e c t o r in 1 97 4, a g r e a t c r i s i s y e a r f o r that p a r t i c u l a r s e c t o r . A s r e g a r d s t h e d e g r e e of i n d u s t r i a l u n r e s t a n d s t r i f e in t h e se ct or , w e m a y u s e t h e c o n c l u s i o n s r e a c h e d b y a c a r e f u l study o n s t r i k e s in It al y : “W h i l e in 1 9 5 9 t h e c o n f l i c t r e v o l v e d , b e s i d e s
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the e n g i n e e r i n g w o r k e r s , a l s o a r o u n d t h e t w o t r a d i t i o n a l s e c t o r s o-f a g r i c u l t u r e a n d t e x t i l e s , s u b s e q u e n t l y t h e i r c o n t r i b u t i o n w a s not o n l y r e l a t i v e l y l o w e r b u t t e n d e d t o d e c r e a s e a s c o m p a r e d w i t h the p r e v i o u s y e a r s . ’O t h e r * s e c t o r s , t h e t e r t i a r y s e c t o r in p a r t i c u l a r , t o o k a d v a n t a g e o-f t h is . T h e t e r t i a r y s e c t o r , in p a r t i c u l a r , in t h e last c y c l e a l b e i t w i t h g r e a t d i f f e r e n c e s w i t h i n ’ it, s h o w s it w a s t h e m o s t e x p o s e d a n d m o s t o p e n to c o n t a g i o n by i n d us t ri al d i s p u t e s " (7). T h e t e x t i l e an d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y , t h e r e f o r e , -from b e i n g a t r a d i t i o n a l s e c t o r w i t h a h i g h p r o p e n s i t y to s t r i k e w a s o v e r t a k e n h a n d s o m e l y b y t h e e n g i n e e r i n g s e c t o r a n d in t h e S e v e n t i e s lost gr ou nd c o m p a r e d w i t h t h e t e r t i a r y s e c t o r (in p a r t i c u l a r , p u b l i c empi o y m e n t ) . 1 7
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\ S E C T O R A L A S S O C I A T I O N S (©
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E C O N O M I C A N D O R G A N I S A T I O N A L A C T I O N T h e b i r t h of t h e F e d e r t e s s i 1 e w a s an i n t e r e s t i n g o r g a n i s a t i o n a l i n n o v a t i o n w h i c h t u r n e d t h e c o m m o n i n t e r e s t of t e x t i l e e n t r e p r e n e u r s t o w a r d s a n e w k i n d o-f c o - o p e r a t i o n i n t o c o l l e c t i v e ac ti on . T h e F e d e r t e s s i l e w a s s e t u p in M i l a n on J u l y 2 n d 1 9 7 5 a s a f e d e r a t i o n of t h e t e n n a t i o n a l a s s o c i a t i o n s of t h e t e x t i l e a n d c l o t h i n g i n d u s t r y . It is a s e c o n d - o r d e r a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h b o t h la bo ur r e l a t i o n s a n d e c o n o m i c t a s k s . V a r i o u s f a c t o r s led, in t h e f i r s t h a l f of t h e S e v e n t i e s , to t h e c r e a t i o n of a n e w f o r m a l a s s o c i a t i o n r e p r e s e n t i n g t h e w h o l e of t h e " t e x t i l e c h a i n " , in p a r t i c u l a r , t h e w o r s e n i n g s e c t o r a l c r i s i s ( e s p e c i a l l y , in t h e 1 9 7 3 - 7 5 p e r i o d , at t h e t i m e of t h e oil c ris is) a l r e a d y u n d e r w a y in t h e S i x t i e s and t h e g r o w i n g c o m p e t i t i v e n e s s of t h e p r o d u c t s f r o m T h i r d W o r l d a n d E a s t e r n E u r o p e a n c o u n t r i e s . C l o s e l y l i n k e d w i t h t h e s e p r o c e s s e s w a s t h e d i r e c t a n d i n d i r e c t p r e s e n c e of t h e S t a t e w h i c h , as w e h a v e seen, b e c a m e s i g n i f i c a n t o n l y f r o m t h e b e g i n n i n g of t h e S e v e n t i e s . T h i s p r e s e n c e r e q u i r e d o r g a n i s a t i o n a 1 i n n o v a t i o n s w h i c h led to th e c r e a t i o n of a b o d y w h i c h w a s a b l e to a c t as a v a l i d s i n g l e n e g o t i a t i n g p a r t n e r as r e g a r d s d o m e s t i c S t a t e i n t e r v e n t i o n and, as r e g a r d s its i n t e r v e n t i o n s in t h e E E C , t o d e f e n d t h e s e c t o r a g a i n s t o t he r c o u n t r i e s 7 c o m p e t i t i o n a n d f r o m t h e r i s k t h a t t h e i d e a s p u t f o r w a r d in t h e D e B a n d t r e p o r t b e c a m e d o m i n a n t . It s h o u l d b e s t r e s s e d t h a t t h e D e l e g a z i o n e A l t a I t a l i a flgiJla C o n f i d u s t r i a s u p p o r t e d t h e p l a n to s e t up a s e c o n d - o r d e r s e c t o r a l a s s o c i a t i o n b e c a u s e it w a s in k e e p i n g w i t h t h e Pi re.II. i - 1 9
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R e-form a n d its i d e a s a b o u t r a t i o n a l i s a t i o n (Ra g g r u p p a m e n t i di c a t e g o ri a ) . T h e i n c i d e n c e of s t r i k i n g a c t i v i t y in t h e s e c t o r d o e s no t s e e m to p r o v i d e a p a r t i c u l a r l y u s e f u l e x p l a n a t o r y v a r i a b l e . T h e w a v e of w o r k e r d i s p u t e s b e t w e e n 1 9 6 8 a n d 1 9 7 2 s a w t h e s e c t o r l o s e g r o u n d a s c o m p a r e d w i t h o t h e r s in t h e p r o p e n s i t y t o s t r i k e . O n t o t h i s b a s i c d a t a , w e c a n a d d a c r u c i a l v a r i a b l e t y p i c a l of e a c h p h a s e o-f t h e c o n s t i t u t i o n of a n e w o r g a n i s a t i o n , n a m e l y t h e p r e s e n c e of e n t r e p r e n e u r - o r g a n i s e r s w h o s e t a s k it is to d e f i n e t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s of t h e o r g a n i s a t i o n , its i d e n t i t y an d m a k e t h e o r g a n i s a t i o n w o r k in p r a c t i c e . T h e s e e n t r e p r e n e u r - p o l i t i c i a n s c a m e f r o m t h e s t r o n g e s t f i r s t - o r d e r a s s o c i a t i o n s : G u i d o A r t o m ( c o t t o n a s s o c i a t i o n ) , G i a n c a r l o L o m b a r d i (wool a s s o c i a t i o n ) ; A n g e l o P a v i a ( k n i t w e a r a n d h o s i e r y ) . A s i g n i f i c a n t r o l e w a s a l s o p l a y e d b y M a r i o B o s e l l i w h o , t h o u g h not c o m i n g f r o m a s t r o n g a s s o c i a t i o n ( t h r o w s t e r s ) p r o v e d a n a b l e p o l i t i c i a n a n d o r g a n i s e r . T h e F e d e r t e s s i 1e b r o u g h t t o g e t h e r t h e f o l l o w i n g f i r s t - o r d e r a s s o c i a t i o n s : A s s o c i az i o n e____ c o t o n i e r a i t a l i a n a ; A s s o c i az i o n e d e l l ’ i n d u s t r i a l a n i e r a i t a l i a n a ; A s s o c i a z i o n e s e r i c a i t a l i a n a ! A s s o c i a z i o n e i t a l i a n a i n d u s t r i a l i t i n t o r i , s t a m p a t o r i e f i n i t o r i t e s s i l i ! A s s o c i a z i o n e n a z i o n a l e del lino, d e l l a c a n a p a , e de Ile f i b r e d u r e ! F e d e r a z i o n e i t a l i a n a i n d u s t r i a l i de i t es si li v a r i e del c a p p e l l o ! A s s o c i a z i o n e i t a l i a n a de i t o r c i t o r i de lla s e t a e dei f i l i a r t i f i c i a l i e s i n t e t i c i ; A s s o c i a z i o n e i t a l i a n a d e l l a f i l a t u r a s e r i c a ! A s s o c i a z i o n e i t a l i a n a p r o d u t t o r i m a g l i e r i e e c a l z e t t e r i e ! A s s o c i a z i o n e i t a l i a n a d e g l i i n d u s t r i a l i d e 1 1 ’ a b b i <g 1 i am e n t o . T h e F e d e r a t i o n e x c l u d e d i n d u s t r i e s p r o d u c i n g -2 0
