The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650

Testo completo

(1)ì ì. EUROPEAN UNIVERSITY INSTITUTE DEPARTMENT OF HISTORY AND CIVILISATION. T——H E M A R K E T IN —S■ ■E■—C—O N■D - H A N D C— C'THES F■■■■U R N I■— SHINGS i ■ ■ ■■ A■■N D — IN VENICE. c .15 C ^ j - c . 1 6 5 0. PATRICIA ANNE A E R S T O N. T h e si s s u b m i t t e d for a s s e s s m e n t p i t h a v i e w to o b t a i n i n g thè d e g r e e of d o c t o r of t h è Euro^.-s; n U n i v e r s i t y Insti tute.. M e m b e r s of t h è Jury: P r o f e s s o r F r a n c o A ngioli ni,. U n i v e r s i t à degli Studi di Pisa ( s u p e r vi so r). P r o f e s s o r L a u r e n c e Font ai ne ,. European University I n s t i t u t e and CNRS, Paris. Dr R i c h a r d M a c k e n n e y ,. U n i v e r s i t y of E d i n b u r g h (external s u p e r v i s o r ). P r o f e s s o r P a o l o M al an im a,. U n i v e r s i t à degli Pi sa. P r o f e s s o r Daniel. I ns ti tu t d ' H i s t o i r e M o d e r n e et C o n t e m p o r a i ne, CNRS, Paris. Florence, Aprii. Roche,. 1996. Studi. di.

(2) Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.



(5) Europ«an University Institute. 3 0001 0038 8709 0. EU RO P E A N U N I V E R S I T Y INST IT UT E D E P A R T M E N T OF H I S T O R Y A N D C I V I L I S A T I O N i&T1TL7q. r. « (. o|-s. % L % 0 u n ' » tS'. T H E M A R K E T IH S E C O N D - H A N D CLOTHES A N D FURNISHIHGS IH V E N I C E . c .1500 - c .1650. PATRICIA ANNE ALLERSTON. T h e s i s s u b m i t t e d for as se s s m e n t w it h a v i e w to o b t a i n i n g thè d e g r e e of d o c t o r of thè E ur o p e a n U n i v e r s i t y Institute.. M e m b e r s of thè Jury: P r o f e s s o r F r a n c o Angi ol in i,. U n i v e r s i t à degli Studi di Pisa (supervisor). P r o f e s s o r L a u r e n c e Fontaine,. E ur op ea n U n i v e r s i t y I ns t i t u t e and CNRS, Paris. Dr R i c h a r d Mac ke nn ey ,. U n i v e r s i t y of E d in bu rg h (external su pe rvisor). P r o f e s s o r P a ol o Malanima,. U n i v e r s i t à degli Studi di Pi sa. P r o f e s s o r Daniel Roche,. I ns titut d ' H i s t o i r e M o d e r n e et C o n t e m p o r a i n e , CNRS, Paris. Florence, Aprii. 1996. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.


(7) A B S T RACT. Th e. ob je c t. of this. s e c o n d - h a n d c l o th es. study. is to re in s t a t e. and f u r n i s h i n g s. V e n i c e f ro m c.150 0 to c.1650. thè. Venetian. guild. 'alternative'. of. of. The. used. market in. w i th in thè hi story of d i s c u s s i o n fo cu se s on. second-hand. exchanges. thè. dealers,. goods,. and. a. number of. a. group. of. J ewis h s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s w h o b e c am e e s t a b l i s h e d in Venice in thè e ar ly s i x t e e n t h century. paid. to. thè. issues. of. P a r t i c u l a r at te n t i o n. g uild. excl usi vi sin. and. is thè. i n e l a s t i c i t y of craft s t r u c t u r e s w i t h i n thè m a r ke t for used goods.. T h e r e are seven chapters. that. thè. g uild of. Chapter. 1 e x p l o r e s thè notion. s e c o n d - h a n d d e a le rs. w as. tradi tional 1 y. import an t in thè mark et but did not have c o m p l e t e control, and C h a p t e r 2 i n v e s t i g a t e s v a r i ou s 'alternative' ex ch a n g e s coexisting t h es e. w i t h thè guild.. basic structures. development. is c h a r t e d. Chapter. traders. 3,. considered introduced.. and. thè. In thè next t h r e e. chapters,. are exami ned in detail. and their. over thè. within new. thè. g r ou p. of. period. as a whole.. second-hand Je wi s h. market. competitors. In are is. The craft a c t i v i t i e s of thè g u il d m e m b e r s and. th è J e wi sh d e a l e r s are a n a l y s e d in C h a p t e r 4.. In Ch ap t e r. 5, a s tudy is m a d e of o u t l e t s for used goods and of their d i s t r i b u t i o n w i t h i n th è city.. Th e last t wo c h a p t e r s assess. thè impact of tw o t y pe s of setbacks: o u t b r e a k s of plague, and. a. seventeenth-century. recession. in. thè. us ed - g o o d s. market.. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.


(9) T A B L E OF C O N T E N T S. List of T a b l e s and I T I u s t r a t i o n s Acknowledgements. page. i ii. E x p l a n a t o r y N ot es on th è V e n e t i a n C a l e n d a r and V e n e t i a n C u r r e n c y. Introduction I.. vii. 1. Topic. 1. a) The s e c o n d - h a n d ma rk e t. 4. b) V e n i c e. 11. c) T h e p e r i o d. 15. II.. P r ob l e m s. 17. III.. Hi s t o r i o g r a p h y. 21. IV.. Sources. 25. V.. Rationale. 34. Chapter 1. G u i 1d Tradi ti ons. 37. I.. T ra d i t i o n a l S t r u c t u r e s. 37. II.. C o n t i n u i t i e s : thè G u i l d in thè G u il d System. III.. Exceptions. Chapter 2 I.. 53. Alternative Exchanges. Legai E x c h a n g e s. 58. 63 63. a). Gifts. 63. b). Loans. 65. c). Pa ym e n t s. 67. d). Coll at er a l. 69. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(10) p ag e II.. Il legai. Exchanges. 76. a) T h e f t. 77. b) Fr aud. 84. c) Admini s t r a t i o n of j u s t i c e. 92. d) Th e t r a d e in mi s a p p r o p r i a t e d g oo ds. Chapter. 3. 107. Traders. 114. I.. C o n t i n u i t y and C h a n g e. 114. II.. T h e E n t r y of th è Jews. 119. a) R e n e w a b l e permits,. c . 1511-18. 122. b) M o r e p e r m a n e n t e s t a b l i s h m e n t s , 1519 o n w a r d s. 133. III.. P o i n t s of C o n t a c t. 140. IV.. Market Parameters. 147. 4. 164. Chapter I.. T h e C r a ft. Guild Members. 166. a) M a s t e r s. 166. b) P e d l a r s. 179. c) R e n t e r s. 182. d) W o m e n. 185. e) O t h e r g u i l d pe rs o n n e l. 189. f) So me da ta f r o m t h è s e v e n t e e n t h. II.. century. 191. Jewish Traders. 196. a) R u l e s. 196. b) R e a l i t y. 203. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(11) page Chapter 5 I.. II.. Markets. Guild Members. 214. a) M a s t e r s. 215. b) Pe dl ar s and o t h e r t r a d e r s. 219. J e w is h T r a d e r s. 221. a) R ules. 222. b) Re al i t y. 230. III. O t h e r M e c h a n i s m s. IV.. 214. of E x c h a n g e. 234. a) A u c t i o n s. 234. b) Illicit t r a d e r s. 252. M a r k e t Lo ca t i o n s. 255. a) D i s t r i b u t i o n of o u t l e t s. 255. b) The s e c o n d - h a n d ma rk e t and thè metropolitan economy. Chapter 6. 266. PI aq u e. 273. I.. Pl ag u e Rules. 276. II.. The R e a l i t y of Plag ue. 285. III. T h e Plag ue of 1630-31. 305. Chapter 7. Th e S e v e n t e e n t h - c e n t u r v Cri sis in th è S e c o n d - h a n d M a r k e t. 310. Conclusion. 328. A p p e n d i x I: C o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s r e g i s t e r e d in thè guild,. 1616-1646. 330. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(12) page Abbreviations. 333. Bibliography. 336. I.. Manuscript Sources. 336. a). A r c h i v i o di S t a t o di V e n e z i a. 336. b). B i b l i o t e c a del M u s e o C o r r e r. 371. c) A r c h i v i o d e l l e I s t i t u z i o n i di R i c o v e r o e di E d u c a z i o n e. 372. d). Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. 374. e). Biblioteca Ouerini Stampali a. 374. f). A r c h i v i o di S t a t o di F i r e n z e. 374. g). P u b l i c R e c o r d Office,. 376. London. h) W e l l c o m e I n s t i t u t e for t hè Hi s t o r y of M e d i c i n e , L o nd on II.. 377. Printed Sources. 377. III. S e c o n d a r y W o r k s. 382. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(13) TABLES AND ILLUSTRATIONS page T a bi es 3.1:. 3.2:. Fees for a d m i s s i o n to thè g u i l d s o f secondh a n d d e a l e r s a n d m e r c e r s (ducats). 116. G u i l d m e m b e r s h i p in thè c l o t h i n g trades. 149. 3.3: M e m b e r s h i p o f thè s e c o n d - h a n d dealers' g u i l d at f i v e - y e a r intervals, 4.1:. 150. O c c u p a t i o n s o f female s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s r e g i s t e r e d in thè guild,. 4.2:. 1 616-1646. 1616-1646. 187. Occupations of second-hand dealers r e g i s t e r e d in thè guild,. 1616-1646. 193. A p p e n d i x 1: C o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s r e g i s t e r e d in thè guild,. 1 616-1646. after page. Fi g ures 1:. 330. Traditional. layout o f Piazza San M a r c o 218. d u r i n g thè S ensa Fair 2: R o u g h s k e t c h o f Piazza San M a r c o d u r i n g thè. 218. Sensa Fair 3: J a c o p o de' Barbari,. The G h e t t o N u o v o. 225. 4: C e n t r e s o f thè V e n e t i a n s e c o n d - h a n d market, 259. c . 1 5 1 6 - c . 1650 A p p e n d i x 1: C o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s r e g i s t e r e d in thè guild,. 1616 - 1 6 4 6. 329. i. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.


(15) ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. I am i nd eb te d to my t h e s i s s u p e r v i s o r s Dr R ic h a r d M a c k e n n e y and P r o f e s s o r Fra nc o A n g i o l i n i . It was R i c h ar d M a c k e n n e y * s inspi rational. t e a c h i n g at u n d e r g r a d u a t e level. attracted. to. me. Venetian. hi story.. Dr. that first. Mackenney. al so. s u g g e s t e d that I apply to th è Eu ro p e a n U n i v e r s i t y I n st i tu te to u n d e r t a k e r es earch on Venice. consci e n t i o u s. supervisor,. He has been an e x tr em el y. gi vi n g. enthusiastic. t h r o u g h o u t thè d u r a t i o n of this project.. support. Franc o Angiolini. has been a n o t h e r i mp or ta nt i n f l u e n c e on this work, makin g helpful. criticisms. references. to. at. secondary. e v er y. stage,. sources,. supplying. v al ua b l e. and p r o v i d i n g. fr ie n d l y. e n c o u r a g e m e n t and practical help.. B e f o r e g o in g to Italy I b e n e f i t e d from a d v i c e on archi vai so ur ce s. given by P r o f e s s o r. Davidson.. B rian Pullan. and Mr. Nicholas. D e f i n i n g my p r o j e c t at F i e s ol e I was f o r t u n a t e. to r e c e iv e help and c o n s t r u c t i v e c r i t i c i s m f ro m Pr o f e s s o r s D o m i n i q u e Julia, Daniel Roche and Robert Rowland, and also f ro m Dr R e nz o De ro sa s and Dr S i m o n a C e r u t t i . of. Professor. O l we n. Huft on. and. thè. return. Th e arrivai of. P ro f e s s o r. S t u ar t W o o l f in my seco nd year pr ov e d d e c i s i v e for several parts. of t h è. thesis.. Advice. and c r i t i c i s m. r es e a r c h s t u d e n t s w e r e also appreci a te d, Rober t. Ba r ri ngton,. Hopkins,. Maitane. Pascal O stolaza,. Brioist, Sylvie. f e ll ow. e s p e c i a l l y from. Marcello Rab,. fr om. Nico. F a n t o n i , Ed Randeraad,. F r é d é r i c Rolland, A n t j e Stannek, Antal Szantay, Jean-Paul Zuniga,. and, a b ov e all,. M a r i e Chessel. w h o has r e m a i n e d a. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(16) staunch. friend. as. wel 1. as. a. gr ateful to Dr S e r g e Noiret, EUI. library,. loans.. Amadei. office,. and. and. critic.. I. am. also. thè hi story speci a list of thè. and to th è s t a f f. Sergio. Department. fi rm. in c h a r g e of i n t e r - 1 i b r a r y. K a th y. a ls o. Woolf. Angela. in. thè. Schenk,. History. have. been. c o n s i s t e n t l y helpful ov er thè years.. In Venice, g iven. by. I. profited. Professors. and. advice. Marino. R e i n h o l d C. M ue ller. with. from. on. Berengo,. Venetian Renata. archives S e gr e. and. I am a l s o grateful for c o n v e r s a t i o n s. information. shared. by. C o s t a n t i n i , M a r i o n L e a t h e r s Kuntz,. Professors. Massimo. D e n n i s R o m a n o and G u i d o. R uggiero, Dr H u m p h r e y Bu tters, Dr M a t t e o Casini, Dr M o n i c a C ho j n a c k i ,. Dr. Wurthmann,. Paul. Hills,. Dottori. Luca. Dr. M ichael. Molà,. Knapton,. P aola. Dr. Bill. Pavanini,. and. e s p e c i a l l y Dr S t e f a n o Pi asenti ni w h o w as mo st g e n e r o u s wi th archivai r e f er en ce s. I. valued. thè. F r i e n d s w e r e i m p o r t a n t in V e n i c e and. company. of. Weichmann,. A n t o n e l l a Saler n o,. Falconi. F r a nc es co ,. di. Joachim. Strupp. and. Birg it. M a r i a A n g e l i c a Gaiine,. N a d i a Zampi er i,. Luca. F r a n c e s c o Calzolai. (not least for l e t t i n g me row his s a n d a l o on t h è lagoon), Leonardo. Buonomo,. Alexis Malliaris,. P a ol a. V en tu r a,. M a r i a M on d e l o u ,. Costantinos. Lambrinòs,. M a r i n a Cacioppi. and Jo. W h e e l e r , D a v i d Sh ah and Siriol Davies.. A l e s s a n d r a Faccioli. deserves. friendship. a. special. m en ti on :. her. was. an. u n e x p e c t e d b o n u s d e r i v i n g f r o m my s t ay in Venice.. I a nd. am gr a te fu l li br a r i e s :. to t h è pe rs o n n e l in. Ven ic e ,. at. of m a n y r e s e a r c h a r c h i v e s thè. Archivio. di. Stato,. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(17) e s p e c i a l l y Dottori. C l a u d i a Salmini. and also M i c h e l a dal Borgo,. and A l e s s a n d r a Sambo,. Franc o Rossi, Sig. Scarp a and. thè e m p l o y e e s on thè issue-desk; at thè B i b l i o t e c a A r c h i v i o 'Renato Maestro*. of thè C o m u n i t à I s r a e l i t i c a di Venezia;. thè B i b l i o t e c a del M u s e o Correr; thè B i b l i o t e c a N a z i o n a l e Marciana; thè B i b l i o t e c a Querini Stampali a; and thè C e n tr o Italiano. per. lo. Giuseppe. E ll e r o. Ricovero. e di. Studio at. d el la. thè. Storia. Archivio. Educazione. wa s. del. Tessuto;. d el le. most. Dott.. Istituzioni. kind.. In. di. Florence,. t h a n k s go to thè staff of thè A r c h i v i o di S t a to di Firenze; thè. Biblioteca. Na zionale;. thè. Is ti t u t o. P ol i t e c n i c o. I n t e r n a z i o n a l e d ella Moda, e s p e c i a l l y Dottori T i z i a n a Muchi and C r i s t i n a dell'Orso;. and also of thè V i l la. Se tt ig na no .. I am grateful to thè staff of thè. P u bl ic. In London,. R e co rd. Office,. H i s t o r y of Medicine,. th è. Wellcome. and th è National. V i c t o r i a and A l be rt Museum. at thè National. i Tatti. Institute. for. at. thè. Art Li br a r y at thè. I am also o b l i g e d to thè folk. Lib ra r y of Scotland;. and at Ed in b u r g h and. G l a s g o w U n i v e r s i t y Libraries.. R e s e a r c h p ap e r s given at c o n f e r e n c e s h el p e d to c o n s o l i d a t e my ideas.. I am grateful. to thè o r g a n i s e r s. of:. 'Cultural. Exchanges: th è C o u rt s of Euro pe in t hè A n c i e n Régime' Working. Group. on. Ancien-régime. Courts. and. thè. (EUI. London. R e n a i s s a n c e Seminar; 'Le t r a m e d e ll a moda: vestirsi a c or t e tra C i n q u e e Seicento' (Centro Studi E u r op a d e l l e Corti and C e n t r o I t a l i a n o per la S t o r i a del Tessuto);. 'The T w e n t y -. f o u r t h Annual S y m p o s i u m on C o m p a r a t i v e T h e m e s in F i o r e n t i n e and. Venetian. Renaissance. History. and. Art. History'. iv. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(18) ( U n i v e r s i t y of W a r w i c k in V en ic e) ; textiles. d an s. 1 'Europe. 'Echanges et c u l t u r e s. p r é - i n d u s t r i e l 1e '. d ' H i s t o i r e M o d e r n e et C o n t e m p o r a i n e , Recherches S elling:. d'Histoire,. Université. t h è C u l t u r e and. Consumerism' Histories. (D es ig n and. Hi stor ia ns ).. de. H i s t o r y of. History. At t h e s e events,. P ar is and C e n t r e de Rouen; Shops,. Societ y) ;. Interpretations'. ( L ' In s ti tu t. 'Design. for. Shopping. and. and. 'Objects,. (Association. of. Art. helpful c o m m e n t s w e r e m ad e. by: Dr T o n y Parr, P r o f e s s o r s A n n a G i u l i a C a v a g n a and C e s a r e M o z z a r e l l i , Dottori G r a z i e t t a Butazzi and Rosari a C a m p i o n i , P r o f e s s o r s L a u r e n c e F o n t a i n e and P a o l o Mal ani m a , Dr C a r o l y n S a r g e n t s o n , Dr L e sl e y M iller, Dr N e g l e y H a r t e and Dr D avid Ormrod.. I am a l s o i n d e b t e d to P r o f e s s o r O l w e n H u ft on and. to Mr J o h n S t y l e s for i n v i t i n g me to g iv e r e s e a r c h p a p e r s in s e m i n a r s at t h è E U I , Floren ce , and in t h è V i c t o r i a and A l b e r t M u s e u m and Royal C o l l e g e of Art MA H i s t o r y of D e si gn Course, London; to Dr R o g e r T a r r of t h è D e p a r t m e n t of Fine Art,. Edinburgh. University;. Professor. o r g a n i s e r of thè D e n y s Hay Seminar, and. to. Dr. Lionel. G la ss ey ,. Tony. Go odman,. E d i n b u r g h Un i v e r s i t y ;. Modern. History. Dep ar tm e nt ,. Glasgow University.. O t h e r p e o p l e w h o m I w o u l d 1 i ke to t h a n k are: in Ed inburgh, G e o r g e Baxter, S t e p h e n Bowd, Dr M a r t i n Chick, Dr A l a n Day, J ac k of J.D. D u n c a n s o n Loan O ffice, P r o f e s s o r M a r t i n Kemp, Professor. Maurice. Maclennan,. Jo Prosser,. P ao la T in a g l i , London,. Dr. Larkin,. Aidan. J a m e s Shaw,. Dr Emma V in ce nt ,. Jennifer. Fletch er ,. Weston. Lewis,. Johanna. Dr Jill S t e p h e n s o n ,. Dr. and Dr S t u a r t Wa ll a c e ;. in. Dr. Paul. Ho lb e r t o n ,. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute. DOI: 10.2870/79438. v. Mary.

(19) Stella. Newton,. and. especially. Dr. Dora. Thornton,. w hose. e n t h u s i a s m for my pr oj ec t has been g r e a t l y ap preciated; Glasgow,. Mr. C h ri s. Black,. Pr of e s s o r. Sam. Cohn,. Dr. in. Brian. Dietz, Dr A n d r e w Hopkins, Dr T h o m a s Munck, P r o f e s s o r A.G.R. Smith,. Dr. Don. Correspondence Patricia. Spaeth, was. Fortini. and. gratefully. Brown,. Dr. Genevieve. re ceived. Peter. Burke,. f ro m. Warwick. Profe ss or s. Rob e rt. C.. Davis,. B e v e rl y Lemire, John Martin, Dr Ruth Martin; and also from M a d e l e i n e Ginsburg, B i a n ca M. Du Mortier, B etty Naggar, and Naomi Tarrant.. T h e f u n d i n g n e c e s s a r y for this thesis, for w h i c h I am most grateful, Eu ro p e a n. wa s. provided. University. De lm a s Foundation. for. his s upport. thanks. go. to. my. by. th è. Institute,. E u ro p e a n. Community,. and. Gladys. thè. thè. Kri eb le. I am also o b l i g e d to P a t ri c k Elliott. and. gr am matica!. mothe r. and. expertise.. father,. Wilma. My and. gr eatest Pat ri ck. Aller st on , w h o gave me a t a s t e for o t he r c u l t u r e s and this t h e s i s is d e d i c a t e d to them.. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(20) THE VENETIAN CALENDAR. In t h è text, m o d e r n d a t i n g r e p l a c e s th è V e n e t i a n s y s t e m of d a t i n g w h i c h b e g a n on M a r c h 1 s t .. T h e o ri ginai c a l e n d a r is. respected. dates. in t h è. footnotes. and. which. m ight. c a us e. c o n f u s i o n are d i s t i n g u i s h e d as m o r e v e n e t o [mv] .. VENETIAN CURRENCY. R e f e r e n c e s to ducats,. lire and soldi a p p e a r. in thè text.. For most of t h è period, on e V e n e t i a n du cat wa s w o r t h 6 lire and 4 soldi, or 124 s oldi (t we nt y soldi w e r e equal to one lira). Lane,. On. Venetian. moneys. of. account,. see. Frederic. C.. V e n e t i a n s h i p s a n d s h i p b u i l d e r s o f thè R e n a i s s a n c e. (Baltimore: J o h n s H o p k i n s U n i v e r s i t y Press, 1934), p p . 2 5 1 2.. For. Pullan,. an. idea. of. Venetian. w o r k e r s 1 wages,. see. Brian. 'W a g e - e a r n e r s and t h è V e n e t i a n economy, 1550-1630' ,. E c o n o m i c Hi s t o r y Review, n . s . 1 6 (1964), 4 0 7 - 2 6 ( p p .415-16); and R o b e r t C. Davis, S h i p b u i lders o f thè V e n e t i a n A r s e n a l : w o r k e r s a n d w o r k p l a c e in thè prei n d u s t r i al ci ty (Bai timore: J o h n s H o p k i n s U n i v e r s i t y Press,. 1991),. p p . 28-31.. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(21) INTRODUCTION. I.. Topi c. This. is a. st udy. of thè. f a b r ic s and f u r n i s h i n g s. second-hand. m a r ke t. in. clothes,. in thè city of V e n i c e from circa. 1500 to 1650, a p e r i o d of c o n s i d e r a b l e e c o n o m i e and social change.. Many. intern at io na l p e r i o d s and, numerous. historians. inevitably,. about. external. t ow ns. and. trade,. citi es. c o n j u n c t i o n with. grow.. examined. t r a d e d u r i n g thè medieval. c o m m e n t a t o r s .*. c o n s u m pt io n,. have. in. and e arly modern. V e n e t i a n c o m m e r c e has a t t ra ct ed Although. th è. were,. developments. much. internai. unti!. has. trade. recently,. been. writ te n. structures neglected.. of In. i nc r e a s e d a t t e n t i o n given to dema nd and. inter es t. In thè past,. in. urban. markets. is b e g i n n i n g. to. for example, craft g u i ld s were often. See thè B i b l i o g r a p h y for thè w o rk s of F r e d e r i c C.Lane, F e r na nd B r a u d e l , D o m e n i c o Sella, C a rl o M. Cipolla, Gino Luzzatto, M a u r i c e A y m a r d and A l b e r t o T en enti; see also R i c h a r d T . R a p p . ' T h e u n m a k i n g of thè M e d i t e r r a n e a n trade hegemony: i nt er national t r ad e riv al ry and t hè commercial r evolution', Jou r n a l o f Ec o n o m i c Hi s t o r y ,35 ( 1 975), 4 9 9 - 5 2 5 . 2 See M e r c a t i e c o n sumi: o r g a n i z z a z i o n e e q u a l i f i c a z i o n e del c o m m e r c i o in Italia dal X I I al X X s e c o l o (Bologna: Edizioni A n a l i s i , 1 986); R i c h a r d A. G o l d t h w a i t e ,'The e c o no my of renaissance Italy: thè preconditions for luxury c o n s u m p t i o n ',in I Tatti S t u d i e s :E s s a y s in thè R e n a i s s a n c e , 2 (Florence: O l s c h k i ,1987), p p . 15-39. Influential w o r k s were: Neil M c K e n dr ic k, John Brewer, and J.H.Plumb, The b irth o f a c o n s u m e r society: thè c o m m e r c i a l i z a t i o n o f e i g h t e e n t h c e n t u r y E n g l a n d ( London :E u ro pa P u b l i c a t i o n s , 1 9 8 2 ) ; and Joan Thirsk, E c o n o m i e p o l i c y a n d p r o j e e t s : thè d e v e l o p m e n t o f a c o n s u m e r s o c i e t y in e a r l y m o d e r n E n g l a n d (Oxford: C l a r e n d o n P r e s s , 1978). For o th er ap pr oaches, see Work in Towns 850-1850, ed. P e n e l o p e J. C o r f i e l d and D er ek Keene (Leicester: Le ic e s t e r U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s , 1990); Andrzej Karpinski, 'The w o m a n on thè m a r k et place: thè s cale of f e m i n i z a t i o n of retai 1 t r a d e in Polish t owns in thè second half of thè 1 6e and in thè 17e c e n t u r y [sic]',in La donna n e l l ' e c o n o m i a , s e c c . X I I I - X V I I I , ed. S i m o n e t t a Cavaci occhi, 1. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(22) discounted modern. as. anachronistic. peri od.. considerable. The. number. organisations.. This. last of. institutions fifteen. publications rece nt. trend. years on in. in. th è. have these. e ar ly seen. a. trading. scholarship. has. e n c o m p a s s e d t h è g u i l d s of It al i a n c i t i e s as well as other p a r t s of E u r o p e . 4. A m o n g these,. thè t r a d e s of V e n i c e have. Atti d e l l e ' S e t t i m a n e di studi' e altri c o nv eg ni , I st i t u t o I n t e r n a z i o n a l e di S t o r i a E c o n o m i c a ’ F . D a t i n i ', P r a t o , n . s . 21 (Florence: Le M on nier, 1990), p p . 2 8 3 - 9 2 ( pp . 283-4); Craig M u l d r e w , 'I n t e r p r e t i n g thè market: th è e t h i c s of c re d i t and c o m m u n i t y r e l a t i o n s in e a r l y m o d e r n E n g l a n d 1, Social H i s t o r y , 18 (May 1993), 163-83. •5 J On thè n e g l e c t of guilds, see R i c h a r d M a c k e n n e y , Tr a d e s m e n a n d t r a d e r s : thè w o r l d o f thè g u i l d s in V e n i c e a n d Europe, c . 1 2 5 0 - c . 1650 ( T o t o w a , N J : B a r n e s & N o b l e , 1 9 8 7 ) , p .xi i ; M e r r y E. Wi es n e r , 'Guilds, m a l e b o n d i n g and w o m e n 's w o r k in e a rl y m o d e r n G e r m a n y ' . i n La d o n n a nel 1 ’ economi a , s e c c .X I I I - X V I 1 1 , ed. S i m o n e t t a C a v a c i o c c h i , Atti d e l l e ' Se t t i m a n e di studi' e altri c o nv eg n i, Istituto I n t e r n a z i o n a l e di S t or ia E c o n o m i c a 'F. Datini', Prato, n . s . 21 (Florence: Le Monnier, 1990), p p . 6 5 5 - 1 9 2 (p.655). A 1 i st of p u b l i c a t i o n s is in C a r l o P o n i , ' L o c a i m a r k e t rules and p ra c t i c e s : t h r e e g u i ld s in thè s am e line of p r o d u c t i o n in e a r l y m o d e r n Bologna', in D o m e s t i c s t r a t e g i e s : work a n d f a m i l y in F r a n c e a n d I t a l y 1600-1800' ,ed. S t ua rt W o o l f (Cambridge: C a m b r i d g e U n i v e r s i t y Press and M a i s o n des S c i e n c e s de l'Homme, 1991), p p . 69-101 (p.71,n.5). Se e a ls o J a m e s R.Farr, H a n d s o f honor: a r t i s a n s a n d t h e i r w o r l d in Dijon, 1 5 5 0 - 1 6 5 0 (Ithaca: Cornell U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s , 1988); C o n f l i t t i nel m o n d o di lavoro, ed. S i m o n a C erutti an d C a r l o Poni, special i ssue of Quad e r n i Storici, n . s . 80 (Aug.1992). For n u m e r o u s s t u d i e s of w o m e n in guilds, see thè B i b l i o g r a p h y for w o r k s by M e r r y E. Wi es n e r , N a t a l i e Z e m o n Davis, M a r g r e t Wensky, D i a n e Willen, Jean H. Q u a t a e r t and A nd r z e j Karpinski. 4 For e xa mp le s, see Lia G h e z a Fabbri, L ’ o r g a n i z z a z i o n e del lavoro in una e c o n o m i a u rbana: le s o c i e t à d ’ arti a B o l o g n a nei sec o l i X V I e X V I I (Bologna: CLUEB, 1988); C a r l o Poni, 'Norms and d i sp ut es : th è s h o e m a k e r s * g u i l d in e i g h t e e n t h c e n t u r y B o i o g n a ', Past a n d Present, 123 (1 9 8 9 ) , 8 0 - 1 0 8 ; idem, 'Locai m a r k e t rules'; C i n z i o V io l an te , 'L'arte dei sarti n e l l o s v o l g i m e n t o del s i s t e m a c o r p o r a t i v o (secoli XIII-X V) ' in E c o n o m i a s o c i e t à i s t i t u z i o n i a Pisa nel m e d i o e v o : saggi e r i c e r c h e (Bari :Dedal o , 1980 ), p p .253-98; Si m o n a Cerutti , 'Du c o r p s au métier: la c o r p o r a t i o n des t a i l l e u r s a T u r i n e n t re X V I l e et X V I I l e siècle', A n n a l e s ESC, 43 (1988), 323-52. 2. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(23) a t t r a c t e d a s ig n i f i c a n t amoun t of a t t e n t i o n . 5. M a n y of th es e i rivesti gati ons h av e c e n t re d on thè p ro d u c t i o n of goods by craft guilds and p a r t i c u l a r e mp h a s i s has been p la c e d on m e t h o d s of p r o d u c t i o n and on g r o u p s of w o r k e r s d e em ed. precociously. s tructures,. pu bl i c. 'industriai'.® markets. and. As. pe dl a r s. wel1 have. scruti nised and much interest has been shown,. as. craft. also. been. e s p ec ia ll y. 3 See R i c h a r d T i l de n R a p p ,I n d u s t r y a n d e c o n o m i e d e c l i n e in s e v e n t e e n t h - c e n t u r y Venice (Cam br id ge M A : H a r v a r d U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s , 1976); Franco Brunello, Arti e mestieri a Venezia nel m e d i o e v o e nel r i n a s c i m e n t o (V i c e n z a :Neri Pozza, 1981); Ma ckenney, T r a d e s m e n ; D or e t t a D a v a n z o Poli, ed., I mestieri della moda a Venezia nei s e c . X I I I - X V I I I -.documenti, 2 vols (Veni ce :G a z z a t t i n o ,1 984-86) ; Giovanni Scarabei 1 o, 'Caratteri e funzioni s o c i o - p o l i t i c h e d e l l ' a s s o c i a z i o n i s m o a V en e z i a sotto la R e p u b b l i c a 1,in S c u o l e di a r t i ,mesti eri e d e v o z i o n e a Venezia, e d . S i l v i a Gramigna, A n n a l i s a P e r i ss a (Venice: A r s e n a l e , 1 9 8 1 ) , p p .5-24; M a s s i m o Costantini, L ' a l b e r o della libertà econ o m i c a : il p r o c e s s o di s c i o g l i m e n t o delle corporazioni v e n e z i a n e (Veni ce :A r s e n a l e ,1987); Antonio Manno, I m e s t i e r i di Venezia: s t o r i a , a r t e e d e v o z i o n e d elle c o r p o r a z i o n i dal X I I I al X V I I I s e colo (Citadella, Padua: B i b l o s , 1995); and thè e x h i b i t i o n c a t a l o g u e s : Arti e mestieri n ell a R e p u b b l i c a di Venezia (Venice: S o p r i n t e n d e n z a ai beni artistici e storici di V e n e z i a , 1980); Me s t i e r i e arti a Venezia 1 1 7 3 - 1 8 0 6 : m o s t r a d o c u m e n t a r i a (Venice: A r c h i v i o di Stato, 1986); I m e s t i e r i d e l l a moda a Venezia dal X I I I al X V I I I s e c o l o ( V e n i c e : S t a m p e r i a di V e n e z i a , 1 9 8 8 ) .On sp ec if ic crafts, see Susan C o n n e l 1, The e m p l o y m e n t o f s c u l p t o r s a n d s t o n e m a s o n s in Venice in thè f i fteenth c e n t u r y (New York: G a r l a n d , 1988); Robert C.Davis, S h i p b u i l d e r s o f thè Venetian A r s e n a l :w o r k e r s a n d w o r k p l a c e in thè p r e i n d u s t r i a i c i t y (Baltimore: J ohns H o p k i n s U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s , 1991); A n d re a Vi anello, L ’ a r t e dei c a l e g h e r i e zava t e r i di Venezia tra X V I I e X V I I I s e c o lo,Memori e d el la c l a s s e di s ci e n z e morali, l ettere ed arti, 49 (Venice: Is ti tu to V e n e t o di Scienze, L e t te r e ed A r t i , 1993); Luca Molà, La c o m u n i t à dei Lucchesi a Venezia: immi grazi on e e industria d ella seta nel tardo medioevo, M e m o r i e d ella c l a s s e di s ci e n z e morali, lettere ed arti, 53 (Veni ce :I s t i t u t o V e n e t o di Scienze, L ettere ed Arti, 1994). 6 For a V e n e t i a n example, see Rapp, I n d u s t r y a n d e c o n o m i e decline. On thè i m p o r t a n c e of retai 1 s t r u c t u r e s in ea rly m o d e r n Venice, see Mac ke nn ey , T r a d e s m e n , p.81. 3. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(24) a m o n g h i s t o r i a n s of e a r l y m o d e r n England, sold by t h e s e means.^. in thè p r o d u c t s. T h e f oc us has r e m a i n e d p r i m a r i l y on. thè p r o d u c t i o n and sale of ne w goods,. however, and this is. m i s r e p r e s e n t a t i v e of. a whole. u r b a n t r a d e as. in thè pre-. i n du st ri al period.. a) T h e s e c o n d - h a n d m a r k e t The m a r k e t for s e c o n d - h a n d w a r e s in e a r l y m o d e r n E u r op e was s u b s t a n t i a l . E x c h a n g e s of us e d g oo ds w i t h i n p r e - i n d u s t r i a l c i t i e s did, for example, of u r b an trade. for. new. economy.. goods. a c c o u n t for a s i z a b l e p r o p o r t i o n. T h e s e e x c h a n g e s c o e x i s t e d w i t h th è ma rk e t and. Indeed,. were in. just many. as. c entrai. corporations. to of. thè. locai. traders,. i n c l u d i n g s h o e m a k e r s and furri er s, a r t i s a n s s p e c i a l i s e d in ol d and new wares.® w a s not a m ar g i n a i. In short,. thè m a r k e t for used g oods. f e a t u r e w i t h i n an e a r l y m o d e r n c it y ' s. e c o n o m y but w a s an integrai part of it.. See R o n a l d M. Berger, 'The d e v e l o p m e n t of retai 1 t r a d e in p r o v i n c i a ! England, c a .1550-1700', Journal of Economie History, 4 0 ( 1 9 8 0 ) , 1 2 3 - 8 ; and th è p a p e r s on retai 1 t r a d e in M e r c a t i e consumi. Pedi ars h a ve a t t r a c t e d m uc h i n t e r e s t , s e e M a r g a r e t S p uf fo rd , The g r e a t r e c l o t h i n g o f rural England: p e t t y c h a p m e n a n d t h e i r w a r e s in thè s e v e n t e e n t h c e n t u r y (L o n d on :H a m b l e d o n P r e s s , 1984); L a u r e n c e Fontaine, H i s t o i r e du c o l p o r t a g e en E u r o p e ( X V e - X l X e siècle), ’ L ' E v o l u t i o n de 1 'Humani t é ’s e r i e s ( P a r i s : A l b i n M i c h e l ,1993) . Al so rei e v a n t is, of course, F e r n a n d Braudel ,C i v i l i z a t i o n a n d capitalism, 15 t h - 1 8 t h century, trans. Si àn Reyno ld s, 3 v o l s (London: Fontana, 1981-84), II : The w h e e l s o f c o m m e r c e (1985) ,pp. 26-80. 8 P o n i , ' N o r m s and d i s p u t e s ',p .81. For V e n e t i a n examples, see G io v a n n i M o n t i c o l o ed., I c a p i t o l a r i d e l l e arti v e n e z i a n e s o t t o p o s t e a l l a G i u s t i z i a e poi a l l a G i u s t i z i a V e c c h i a d a l l e o r i g i n i al M C C C X X X [ C A V ] , 3 v o l s in 4 p a rt s (Rome : I st i t u t o St or i c o Ital i ano, 1896-1914), II ( 1905), 1 ,p.154 [ s h o e m a k e r s an d c o b b l e r s ] ;i b i d .,p p .99-114 [furriers]. 4. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(25) N o t w i t h s t a n d i n g this ce nt rality, h i s t o r i a n s of urban trade s have t e n d e d to d i s r e g a r d thè u s e d - g o o d s market. Fabbri. i n c o r p o r a t e d s e c o n d - h a n d d e a le rs into her study of. B o l o g n e s e guilds, b oo k. Lia G h ez a. on V e n e t i a n. but she trades,. is an. exception.®. Antonio Manno. In his. new. acknowledges. thè. e x i s t e n c e of thè craft, but he does not d i s c u s s it in any d e t a i l . 10. T h i s neg le ct r eq ui re s some consi derat ion for it. does not reflect a lack of evidence.. F ro m thè n i n et ee nt h. c e n t u r y onwards, It a li an guild st at u t e s re la t i n g to secondhand. dealers. have. c om e. to. Tight,. but,. since. then,. thè. a c t i v i t i e s of t r a d e r s in used goods (unlike o t h e r sorts of crafts) have ar ou s e d little c u r i o s i t y . ". W he n thè subject. has arisen, s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s have u su a i l y been as si g n e d a p l ac e at thè very b o t t o m of thè craft hierarchy.. Th e t r a d e in old c l o t h e s and f ab r i c s was a di st i n c t sector w i t h i n thè mark et for used goods and was not inferi or to o ther trades.. D u ri n g an early d e m a r c a t i o n d i s p u t e at thè. 9 Fabbri, L ’ o r g a n i z z a z i o n e del lavoro, p p . 109-32. F ab b r i ' s study shows s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s to have been among thè top t w e l v e g u il ds of Bologna, see ibid., p.27 [I am grateful to J a me s S ha w for r em i n d i n g me of this point]. ^ Manno, I m e s t i e r i di Venezia, p p .14,17,160. M a n n o rep ea ts m i s l e a d i n g i n f o r m a t i o n about thè gu il d ' s m ee t i n g place; on t hi s t o p i c see C h a p t e r 5 , IV.a) below. 11 C A V , 1 ( 1 89 6) ,1 3 5- 8; CAV.11,2, X C V I I ,C L X X X V I I I - I X , 457-85; F e r d i n a n d o Sarti n i ,e d . ,S t a t u t i d e l l ’ a r t e dei rigattieri e linaioli di F i r e n z e ( 1 1 8 9 -1340) ( F l o r e n c e : L e Monnier, 1940). On R oman s t a t u t e s of 1609, see Gian Lu do v i c o Masetti Zannini, 'Ebrei, artisti, oggetti d 'a r t e (documenti romani dei secoli XVI e XVII)', C o m m e n t a r i (Rome), n . s . 25 (JulyD e c . 1 9 7 4 ) , 2 8 1 - 3 0 1 (n.2 , p . 291). Od d V e n e t i a n s t a t u t e s a p p ea r in Poli, Mestieri, 11,201; and thè g uild re gi st er f ea tu r e d in her e x h i b i t i o n I m e s t i e r i d ella moda ( c a t .187,p . 238). 5. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(26) end. of 1431,. that. it:. city.'. thè. Venetian guild. '...was,. and. is,. t hè. of h o s i e r s most. noble. acknowledged c ra ft. in. thè. P r a c t i t i o n e r s of t h i s t r a d e w e r e d i s t i n g u i s h a b l e. f r o m d e a l e r s in d i f f e r e n t s or ts of s e c o n d - h a n d w a r e s 1 ike metal. cooking. pots. and. ol d. shoes;. unlike. these. other. s u p p l i e r s of us ed goods, T o m m a s o Garzoni d e v o t e d a s e p a r a t e d i s c u s s i o n to o l d - c l o t h e s d e a l e r s in his g r ea t s i x t e e n t h c e n t u r y c o m p e n d i u m of trades, La p i a z z a uni versai e di tutte le p r o f e s s i o n i del mondo. J. D e a l e r s in s e c o n d - h a n d c l o t h e s and f a b r i c w e r e a s s o c i a t e d m or e w i t h d ra pers, m e r c e r s and tailors, th an w it h metal or leather-workers,. and. in. certain. I t a l ia n. cities. b e l o n g e d to generai g u i l d s of c l o t h retailers. second-hand s om e. stage,. g u i l d . 14. dealers tailors Art. combined were. with. al so. historians. t he y. Fiorentine. 1 i n e n - d r a p e r s , and. incorporated. rarely. into. acknowledge. at. t hi s that. 2 B M C ,M a r i e g o l a d e gli s t r a z z a r u o l i [ M . S t .],c a p .42,f .36,nd (late 1431): '...che! m e s t i e r p [ r e ] d i t t o de la s t r a c a i a è s t a d o ed è el più n o b e l e m e s t i e r de la t e r r a [sic]'. 11 (Veni ce :V i n c e n z o S o m a s c o ,1595) [first p u b l i s h e d 1585], d i s c . 153, ’ D e 's t r a c c i a r o l i ',f f .917-8. On t h i s w o r k and its author, see C l e m e n t e D e l l a Corte, To m m a s o G a r z o n i : vita ed o p e r e (S.M. C a p u a v e t e r e : P r o gr es so , 1913); B e n e d e t t o Croce, 'Pagine di T o m m a s o G a r z o n i ' , in 'Scrittori del p i e n o e dei t a r d o ri nasci m e n t o ', n o .31 , La Cri t ica (Napl es ), 42, 5-6 (Dee. 1 9 4 4 ) , 2 5 1 - 9 ; Ugo T u c c i , ' I me st ie ri n e l l a P i a z z a u n i v e r s a l e del G a r z o n i ' , i n S t u d i in m e m o r i a di Luigi dal Pane (Bologna: C L U E B , 1 9 8 2 ) , p p . 319-31 ; A l e s s a n d r o G n a v i , 'Valori urbani e a t t i v i t à m a r g i n a l i n e l l a P i a z z a u n i v e r s a l e di T o m m a s o G a r z o n i ' , R i c e r c h e Storiche, 20,1 (1990), 45-71. ASF, A r t e dei r i g a t t i e r i , 7 inaioli e sarti, no. 5, Lo s t a t u t o dei r i g a t t i e r i e linaioli, 1 3 4 0 - 1 5 2 9 ; ibid., ms n o . 845, N o t i z i e s u l l ' a r t e dei rig a t t i e r i , linaioli e sarti, nd. S e e a l s o V io la nt e, ' L ’ a r t e dei sarti', p . 2 7 3 and n.52. 6. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(27) Donatello's. stat ue. of. Saint. Mark. on. Orsanmichele. was. commi s s i o n e d by t hese s e c o n d - h a n d d e a l e r s as w e l 1 as thè 1 i n e n - d r a p e r s , re fl e c t i n g thè t hè t r a d e . ^ t-o thè. In Bologna,. company. st razzarol i ) .. low vi ew g e n e r a l l y held of. t r a d e r s in used. of d r a p e r - s e c o n d - h a n d. cl oth be lo n g e d. dealers. (drappieri. V e n e t i a n r e ta il er s of used fabric and old. c l o t h e s had th eir own s ep a r a t e guild, a p r i v i l e g e w hi ch was not e x t e n d e d to t r a d e r s in other s e c o n d - h a n d goods in thè city.*7. Although. t he y. enjoyed. dose. links. with. other. c loth dealers, t heir o r g a n i s a t i o n was i n d e pe nd en t of them.. It has long been re c o g n i s e d that Jews and w o m e n w e r e also closely 1580s,. i nv o l v e d with for. instance,. thè t r a d e in old clothes. Garzoni. noted that. thè. t r ad e had p a r t i c u l a r links with thè Jews. 1fi of. t h es e. supposedly. marginai. b ands. In thè. second-hand. The inclus io n. of w o r k e r s. does. not. ^ ASF, A r t e dei r i g a t t i e r i , linaioli e sarti, ms no. 845, N o t i z i e s u l l ' a r t e dei rigattieri, linaioli e sarti. For thè s t a n d a r d a rt - h i s t o r i c a l attrib ut io n, see C h a r l e s Avery, Fiorenti ne renai ssance s c u l p t u re (London :M u r r a y , 1 9 7 0 ) ,p.56. Lia G h e z a Fabbri, 'Drappieri, strazzaroli, zavagl i : una c o m p a g n i a b o l o g n e s e fra il XVI e il XVIII s e c o l o 1, Il C a r r o b b i o (Bologna), 4 (1980), 163-80 ( p p . 164-5); idem, L’ o r g a n i z z a z i o n e del lavoro, p p . 109-11. ^ See n.8 a b o v e . Garzoni, Piazza, f.917. See also D avid Kaufmann, 'A c o n t r i b u t i o n to thè h i s t o r y of thè Ve ne t i a n Jews', J e wish Q u a r t e r l y Review, 1 st ser ie s 2 , 2 ( 1 8 9 0 ) ,2 9 7 - 3 0 5 ( p .298); Luigi A r n a l d o Schiavi, 'Gli Ebrei in V e n e z i a e n e ll e sue colonie: appunti storici su documenti editi ed inediti*, N uov a A n t o l o g i a di Scienze, L e t t e r e e d Arti (Rome), 3rd serie s 4 7 ( 1 8 9 3 ) , 3 0 9 - 3 3 3 , 4 8 5 - 5 1 9 (p.320). On f e ma l e d e a le rs in Venice, see B. C e c c h e t t i , 'Le i nd u s t r i e in V e n e z i a nel s e c ol o X I I I ’, A r c h i v i o Veneto, 4 ( 1 8 7 2 ) , 2 1 1 - 5 7 ( p .234); for t h e m elsewhere, see A.Abram, 'Women t r a d e r s in medieval London', E c o n o m i e J o u r n a 7,2 6 ( 1916), 276- 85 (p.276). 7. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(28) e x p l a i n h i s t o r i a n s ' n e g l e c t of t hè s e c o n d - h a n d market. history. of. these. tw o. groups. has. be en. studi ed. The. for. a. c o n s i d e r a b l e a m ou nt of t i m e and thè p a st t h i r t y y e a r s have witnessed. a notable. output. of w o r k s. on. bo th. s u b j e c t s . 19. S t u d i e s a bo ut Jews in t h è e a r l y m o d e r n p e r i o d o f t e n in cl u d e mention. of. thè. second-hand. i n v e s t i g a t e or r e - e x a m i n e it.. trade,. but. they. do. not. Instead, t h e y u s u a l l y repeat. r e c e i v e d n o t i o n s of thè s e c o n d - h a n d t r a d e b e i n g a mean and u n w o r t h y a c ti v it y, treatment. in. work. also. ha ve. c i t i n g it as p r o o f of th è Jews'. economie. affai rs.20. reiterated. Historians. accepted. views. of. u n f ai r. of. w o m e n 's. thè. trade,. t h o u g h M e r r y W i e s n e r W o o d has r e c e n t l y a r g u e d that f e ma le dealers. in. u se d. goods. performed. vital. r oles. in. urban. e c o n o m i e s .21. The. misconception. t ha t. thè. second-hand. m a rk et. was. of. r e l a t i v e l y li tt l e im po rt an ce , p l a y i n g a p e r i p h e r a l part in. ® See t h è R e v u e de s E t u d e s J u i v e s (Paris, 1880- ); and th è J e w i s h O u a r t e r l y Review, (London, 1889- ); al so E. Dixon, ’ C r a f t s w o m e n in t h è livre d e s m é t i e r s ’, E c o n o m i e J o u r n a l ,5 (1895), 209-28; and A l i c e Clarke, W o r k i n g life o f w o m e n in thè s e v e n t e e n t h century, n e w edn (London: R o u t l e d g e & Kegan Paul, 1982). Schi a v i ,'E b r e i ',p .320. For a recen t ex am pl e, see R o b e r t o B o n f i 1, Gli E brei in I t a l i a n e l l ' e p o c a del R inascimento, t r a n s .M a s s i m o A c a n f o r a T o r r e f r a n c a ( F I o r e n c e :S a n s o n i ,1991), p.67. A t t i l i o M i l a n o w as an e xc e p t i o n : S t o r i a degli Ebrei in I t a l i a (Turin: Einaudi, 1963), p p . 549-50. A b r a m , ' W o m e n t r a d e r s 1 ,p .276; cf. M e r r y W i e s n e r Wood, 'Paltry p e d d l e r s or es se n t i a l m e r c h a n t s ? W o m e n in thè d i s t r i b u t i v e t r a d e s in e a r l y m o d e r n N u r e m b e r g ' , S i x t e e n t h C e n t u r y J o u r n a l , 1 2 , 2 ( 1 9 8 1 ) , 3 - 1 3 ( p p . 8-10) ; see a l s o Pe ter Burke, ' C l a s s i f y i n g thè people: thè c e n s u s as c o l l e c t i v e r e p r e s e n t a t i o n ' , in The h i s t o r i c a l a n t h r o p o l o g y o f e a r l y m o d e r n Italy: e s s a y s on p e r c e p t i o n a n d c o m m u n i c a t i o n (Cambri dge: Cambrì dg e Uni v e r s i t y P r e s s , 1987), p p .2 7 - 3 9 (p. 36). 8. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(29) thè e ar l y m o d e r n urban economy, needs to be dispelled.. The. f a l la cy d er i v e s from a basic m i s u n d e r s t a n d i n g of thè nature of thè t r a d e and is p r o b a b l y rooted in c ha n g e s in at ti t u d e s towards. used. industriai. goods. w hi c h. accompanied. thè. maturing. of. e c o n o m i e s and thè o nset of ma ss c o n s u m p t i o n .22. S i nc e thè n i n e t e e n t h century,. s e c o n d - h a n d goods (antiques. excep te d) have been a s s o c i a t e d p r e d o m i n a n t l y with thè poor and. this. is. historians s ince. likely. have. increased. to. vi ew e d. have. in fl u e n c e d. thè t r a d e . ^. interest has. thè. Indeed,. been shown. way it. modern is only. in p o v er ty. that. eighteenth. and. c u r i o s i t y in thè to pic has been aroused.. Old-clothes. d ea l e r s. practising. in. thè. n i n e t e e n t h c e n t u r i e s have re ce n t l y a t t r a c t e d t h è a tt e n t i o n of. historians.. C o n t e m p o r a n e o u s l y , two s im i l a r. paths. of. re se ar ch have been followed: one re fl e c t s thè interest in Eng li sh po pu la r consumeri sm g e n e r a t e d by M cK en drick, Brewer and Plumb; and thè o t he r is part of an in -d ep th exami nati on. 22 For thè i n f l u e n c e of m e c h a n i s a t i o n and c h e a p e r pric es on a t t i t u d e s to cloth, see D o r e tt a D a v a nz o Poli, 'La v e st e dei simulacri', in M a d o n n e d e l l a l a g u na:simulacri 'da v e s t i r e ’ dei secoli XIV-XIX, ed. R i c c a r d a P a g n o z z a t o (Rome: Is ti tu to d e l l a E n c i c l o p e d i a Italiana, 1993), p p . 121-38 (p p. 136-7). 23 On such v i e w s , s e e M a d e l e i n e Gi nsburg, 'Rags to r i ch e s : t h e s e c o n d - h a n d c l o t h e s t r a d e 1700-1978' Costume, 14 ( 1980),121 35(p.128); B e v e r l y L e m i r e , 'Consumeri sm in p r e -i nd us tr ia l and e a r l y industriai England: thè t r a d e in s e c o n d h a n d c l o t h e s ' , Jo u r n a l o f B r i t i s h Studies, 27 (1988), 12 4 ( p p . 21-3); B etty N a g g a r ,'01d - c l o t h e s men: 18th and 19th c e n t ur ie s' , J e w i s h H i s t o r i c a l Studies, T r a n s a c t i o n s of thè Jewi sh Hi storical Soci ety of E n g l a n d , 3 1 ( 1 9 9 0 ) ,171-91(p.190) 9. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(30) of t h è h i s t o r y. of a p p e a r a n c e s. work. confi ict. on. guild. research OC goods. li tt l e. on. has. in F r a n c e . 2* inspi red. eighteenth-century. R o m an. a. thi rd. a b ou t. thè. second-hand. th è. volume. of. textiles. i n t r o d u c t i o n of thè m u c h - c e l e b r a t e d fewer. cheap. fabrics. were. of. in. used. is stili. very. market. s i x t e e n t h and s e v e n t e e n t h c e n t u r i e s - a p e r i o d notwithstanding. type. dealers. Despite these d e v e l o p m e n t s , there. information. C a r l o Poni's. thè. in which, and. thè. 'n e w dr ap e r i e s ' ,. far. a v a i l a b l e . 2®. traded. in. In. 1990,. a. li. M c K e n d r i c k et al, B i r t h ; L e m i r e , ' C o n s u m e r i s m ' ; i d e m , ' T h e t he ft of c l o t h e s and p o p u l a r c o n s u m e r i s m in e a r l y mo de r n E ngland', J o u r n a l o f S o c i a l History, 2 4 ( 1 9 9 0 ) , 2 5 5 - 7 6 ; idem, ' Peddling fashion: sales me n , p a w n b r o k e r s , t ay lors, t h i e v e s and th è s e c o n d - h a n d c l o t h e s t r a d e in E n g l a n d , c .1700-1800', T e x t i l e History, 22 ( 1991 ), 6 7 - 8 2 ; Jo hn S t y l e s discusseci clothes and non-élite consumers 1660-1800 at thè c o n f e r e n c e , E c h a n g e s et c u l t u r e s t e x t i l e s dans l'Europe p r é - i n d u s t r i e l i e [ R o u e n , M a y 1993: I am gratef ul to John S t y l e s for a c o p y of his paper]; on thè E n g l i s h trade, see al so Gi nsburg, 'Ra gs ' ; Naggar, ' O l d - c l o t h e s men ' ; idem, Je^7s/7 p e d l a r s a n d h a w k e r s , 1 7 4 0 - 1 9 4 0 ( Camberley: P o r p h y r o g e n i t u s , 1992). On t h è P a r i s i a n trade, see Daniel Roche, La c u l t u r e d e s a p p a r e n c e s : u ne h i s t o i r e du v è t e m e n t ( X V I I e - X V I J I e sfèc7ej, 2nd edn (Paris: Fayard, 1991), p p . 327-45.. ^ C a r l o M. T r a v a g l i n i , 'Rigattieri e s o c i e t à r o ma na nel s e t t e c e n t o ' , Q u a d e r n i Storici, n . s . 80 (Aug.1992), 415-448. On thè c h e a p e r n e w d r a p e r i e s and t h e i r w i d e r appeal in s ociety, see C a l e n d a r o f s t a t e p a p e r s a n d m a n u s c r i p t s , r e l a t i n g to E n g l i s h affairs, e x i s t i n g in thè a r c h i v e s a n d col l ec t i o n s o f V e n i c e , a n d in o t h e r 1 ibrar i e s o f N o r t h e r n Italy, e d . R a w d o n B r o w n and o t h e r s (L o n d o n :H M S O , 1864-1947), X X I I ,ed. Al 1 en B .Hi n d s ( 1 9 1 9 ) , p .326, A p r .20 1630; R a l p h Davi s , ' En gland and th è M e d i t e r r a n e a n , 1 5 7 0 - 1 6 7 0 ' , in E s s a y s in thè e c o n o m i e a n d s o c i a l h i s t o r y o f T udor a n d S t u a r t E n g l a n d in h o n o u r o f R . H . T a w n e y , ed. F . J . F i s h e r (Cambridge: C a m b r i d g e U n i v e r s i t y Press, 1 9 6 1 ) , p p . 1 1 7 - 3 7 ( p . 123) ; a ls o John May, A d e c l a r a t i o n o f thè e s t a t e o f clothing, E n g l i s h experi enee s e r i e s , 4 0 0 , facs (Am st e rd am : T h e a t r u m Orbi s T e r r a r u m , 1971), p.21; F . J .F i s h e r ,'L o n d o n 's e x p o r t t r a d e in thè e a r l y seventeenth century E c o n o m i e H i s t o r y Revi ew, n.s. 3(1950), 1 5 1 - 6 1 ( p p . 1 5 4 - 5 6 , 1 5 8 ) ; P .J .Bowdon, ’ Wool s u p p l y and thè w o o l l e n i n d us tr y' , E c o n o m i c Hi s t o r y R e v i e w , n .s .9 ( 1956-57), 4 4 - 5 8 (pp.51-3); C h a r l e s W ilson, 'Cloth p r o d u c t i o n and i n t e r n a t i o n a l c o m p e t i t i o n in thè s e v e n t e e n t h centu ry ', 10. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(31) c o n f e r e n c e held in M i l a n h i g h l i g h t e d thè i m p o r t a n c e of this market,. but. no. detailed. study. f u n c t i o n e d or of how it fitt ed a whole.. yet. e x i st s. of. how. it. into thè urban economy as. This thesi s is in te n de d to help fili that gap.. b ) Veni ce V e n i c e is an e x ce ll en t su bj ec t for a study of thè secondhand market.. The internai. e c o n o m y of this city off er s a. p a r t i c u l a r l y s u i t a b l e c o n t ex t in wh ich to exami ne e xc h an ge s of. s e c o n d - h a n d goods and thè V e n e t i a n. a r c h i v e s are. also. rich in d o c u m e n t a r y material for thè e a r l y mode rn period. As well as being c o s m o p o l i t a n (thè c i ty was stili a major c e n t r e for t e x t i l e s and o ther fo r ei gn m e r c h a n d i s e in thè e a r l y m o d e r n period), thè urban e c o n o m y of V en i c e was also no v er y developed. Indeed, it was distinguished by. E c o n o m i e H i s t o r y Review,. n . s . 13 (1960) 209-21.. 71. P er una S t o r i a d e l l a M o d a Pronta: Problemi e Ricerche, C e n t r o It al i a n o per lo S t u d i o d el la S t o ri a del T e s su to ( C I S S T ) , Milan, F e b . 1 9 9 0 ( F I o r e n c e :E D I F I R , 1991): pap er s by M a r z i a Cataldi Gallo,'Il c o m m e r c i o degli abiti usati a Genova nel XVII s e c o l o ' , p p . 95-106; Antonio Musiari, 'Commercio di abiti usati o già c o n f e z io na ti a Parma nei secoli XVII e XVIII', p p . 69-83; Bia nc a M . D u Mortier, 'I n t r o d u c t i o n into thè used-clothing m a rk et in thè N e t h e r l a n d s 1 , pp .117-25; see also idem, 'Tweede ha nd s k leding in de z e v e n t i e n d e e e u w ' , T e x t i el h i s t o r i s c h e Bijdragen, 31 (1991), 3 9 -5 9 II am grateful to Prof. O lw en Huf to n for a copy]. The f o r t h e o m i n g b o o k of B e v e r ly Lemire (another p a r t i c i p a n t ) on thè c l o t h i n g t ra d e in England, 1660 -1 80 0 w i 11 i n c l ud e thè s e c o n d - h a n d market. On t h è c i t y' s c o n t i n u i n g role as entrepòt, see D o m e n i c o Sella, 'Les m o u v e m e n t s longs de l ' i n d u s t r i e l ai nière à V e n i s e aux X V I e et X V I I e s i è c l e s ' , A n n a l e s ESC, 12(Jan.-Mar. 1 9 5 7 ) , 2 9 - 4 5 ( p . 34); idem, C o m m e r c i e industrie a Venezia nel s e c o l o X V I I (Venice: I s t i t u t o per la C o l l a b o r a z i o n e Cui turai e , 19 6 1 ) , p p .1-21 ; B r a u d e l , Ci vi 1i z a t i o n , 1 1 1 \ The p e r s p e c t i v e o f thè w o r l d (1988), p p . 124-6. 11. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(32) r e m a r k a b l y s p e c i a l i s e d c r a f t s t r u c t u r e s . 29 S i m o n e Luzzatto, a w a r e of. a c o m m e n t a t o r who,. th è organi s a t i o n of. In 1638, Rabbi. as a Jew, was a c u t e l y. trades. in thè. city,. stat ed. t ha t : ...thè V e n e t i a n R e pu bl ic , thè be st o r g a n i s e d of any. other. [Republic]. in. livi ng. memory,. has. a l w a y s e n s u r e d and t a k e n c a r e to e m p h a s i s e and s u s t a i n a p r e c i s e d i f f e r e n t i a t i o n of orders, not only. in. t hè. government. -. tripartite of. common. framework. people,. of. citizens. its and. n o b i l i t y - but it has a l s o t a k e n g r ea t p a i n s to d i v i d e an d s e p a r a t e all i n c l u d i n g Tesser. Venetian. thè c r a f t s of t hè c it y. [trades] ...3D. guiTds proTiferated. from thè thirteenth century. onwards, p a r t T y in r e s p o n s e to t h è v as t q u a n t i t y of fo re i g n g o od s. coming. into. thè. city,. but. also. to. cater. for. thè. pQ 3 F r e d e r i c C. Lane, Venice: a m a n t i m e republic, 4th edn ( Bai ti m o r e :J o h n s H o p k i n s U n i v e r s i t y Press, 1987), pp. 155-66; Mac ke nn ey , Tradesmen, p.10; Manno, I mestieri,p. 1 7 .For a sevent e e n t h - c e n t u r y 1 ist of guilds, see R a p p , I n d u s t r y , pp. 171-5. S i m o n e Luzz at to , D i s c o r s o c i r c a il s t a t o de gl'Hebrei, et in p a r t i c o l a r d i m o r a n t i n e l l ’inclita c i t t à di Venetia (Veni c e : G i o a n n e Cai 1e o n i ,1638), f.22v: '...la R e p u b [ b ] l i c a v e n e t i a n a [sic] la m e g l i o o r d i n a t a di q u a l u n q u e a l t r a si c o n s e r v a a p p r e s s o la n o s t r a me m oria, co[n] ogni p u n t u a l i t à s e m p r e p ro cu rò , & o s s e r v ò non s ol o nel t r i p l i c a t o o r d i n e spettante al pub[b]lico Governo di comun Popolo, C i t t a d i n a n z a , e M o b i l i t à di far a pp ar ir e, & m a n t e n i r e [sic] f e r m a u n ' e s a t [ t ] a d i s t i n t i o n e [sic] d 'o r d i n i , ma a n c o r a con i n d i c i b i l e i n d u s t r i a ha diviso, e s e p a r a t o t u t t e 1 'Arti d e l l a c i t t à ben m e n o che m e d i o c r i . . . ' . Se e B e n j a m i n C.I. Ravid, E c o n o m i c s a n d t o l e r a t i on in s e v e n t e e n t h - c e n t u r y Venice: t h è b a c k g r o u n d a n d c o n t e x t o f thè D i s c o r s o o f S i m o n e Luzzatto, A m e r i c a n A c a d e m y for J e w i s h R e s e a r c h m o n o g r a p h series, 2 (Je ru sa le m : A m e r i c a n A c a d e m y for J e w i s h R e s e a r c h , 1978). 12. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(33) c i t y ' s e x p a n d i n g popul ati on .31. Th ey c o n t i n u e d to play an. i m po rt an t role in thè urban e c o n o m y until t h ei r demi se at thè. beginning. Products were. thè. i n cl u di ng w o r k e d. v e ry. economy;. of. much. ni n e t e e n t h furs. associated. thè same is true for. c e n t u r y . 32. and high. wi t h. this. quality. Luxury fabrics. g u i 1d - d o m i n a t e d. s e c o n d - h a n d goods,. though. some n i n e t e e n t h - c e n t u r y h i s t o r i a n s found this notion hard to a c c e p t .33. V e n i c e is, therefore, an a p p r o p r i a t e subject. 31. On thè guilds' o b s c u r e origins, see M a c k e n n e y , Tradesmen, pp.xi i , 1-43; Lane, yen 7ce, pp. 104-9; M a ri a Fr an c e s c a Tiepolo, 'Arti e artigiani a V e n e z i a ne lle c a rt e d'archivio', in V'enj'ceynart'fl5(Venice:Confartigianato, 1986) .unpag.On whether t he y w e r e s p o n t a n e o u s d e v e l o p m e n t s or i mposed from above, see S y lv ia L . T h r u p p , ' T h e gi ld s ' . i n C a m b r i d g e Econ o m i e H i s t o r y o f Europe, III : E c o n o m i e o r g a n i z a t i o n a n d poli cies in thè m i d d l e a g e s , e d .M . M . P o s t a n ,E .E .Ri eh and Edward Mill er ( C a m b r i d g e :C a m b r i d g e U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s , 1 9 6 3 ) , p p .230-80 (pp. 233-7); E r n es to S e s t a n 1s p r e f a c e to Arti e cor p o r a z i o n i n ell a s t o r i a d ’ Ital i a (Spoleto: Ce nt r o I ta l i a n o di Studi s u l l ' A l t o M e d i o e v o , 1 9 6 6 ) , p p . 5 - 1 9 ( p . 6). For links between thè numb er of urban occupa t io ns , thè state of commercial d e v e l o p m e n t and thè size of population, see D e re k Keene, 'C o n t i n u i t y and d e v e l o p m e n t in urban trades: p r o b i e m s of c o n c e p t s and thè e v i d e n c e ' , i n Work in Towns 850-1850, ed. P e n e l o p e C o r f i e l d and D erek Keene (Leicester: Leices te r University Press,1990), p p .1-16 ( p .7); Christopher R. Friedrichs, The e a r l y m o d e r n c i t y , 1450-1750, A his to ry of urban s o c i e t y in Europe series ( London :L o n g m a n , 1995), p .1 53. 32 On thè guilds' p er s is te nc e, see Rapp, Industry, p.15. For thè p r o c e s s of t heir di s s o l u t i o n , see Costantini, L'albero. 33 R . D e l o r t . ' U n aspect du c o m m e r c e v é n i t i e n au XVe siècle: A n d r e a B a r b a r i g o et le c o m m e r c e des f o u r r u r e s (1430-40)', Le M o y e n A g e , 7 1 , n o . 2 (1965),29-70; Pie rr e Sardella, 'L 'é p a n o u i s s e m e n t industriel de V e n i s e au XV Ie siècle :u n beau t e x t e i nédi t' ,A n n a l e s ESC, 2 ( 1947 ) 195-6 ;Sei l a , Commerc i, e h .1 ;i d e m ,'M o u v e m e n t s '; Fernand B r a u d e l ,'La vita e c o n o m i c a di V e n e z i a nel s e c ol o XVI', in La c i v i l t à v e neziana del ri nasci m e n t o ,IV : Il c i n q u e c e n t o (Florence: Sansoni, 1958), pp.81 -102;Lane, Venice,p p .161-2,309-10; Mackenney, Tradesmen, p p .81-4,106-7; Lisa M o n n a s . ' L e luxe i n d u s t r i e l ',in Venise 1 5 0 0 : la p u i s s a n c e , la n o v a t i o n et la c o n c o r d e : l e trio m p h e du mythe, e d .Phi 1 i ppe Braunstei n ,Mémoi res seri e s ,22 (Paris: E d i t i o n s A u t r e m e n t ,1993), p p . 157-67. For b e m u s e d r e ac ti o ns to thè s e c o n d - h a n d trade, see C e c c h e t t i ,'I n d u s t r i e ' , p . 234; idem, La vita dei Veneziani nel 1300, facs., C o l l a n a di 13. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(34) for. an exami n a t i o n of. permits. in si g h t. relation. to. into. other. thè s e c o n d - h a n d th è. way. because. it. it. functioned. in. a. thriving. in w h i c h. markets. s o p h i s t i c a t e d e a r l y m odern,. market. within. u rb an economy.. In a d d i t i o n to a g r e a t e r d i v i s i o n of trades, economy. of. suggests, state e nd s. Venice. was,. characterised. co nt ro l. s uc h. as. as by. Rabbi an. Government ensuring. and. Luzzatto’ s. unusually. high. intervention. consumer. thè internai statement degree. served. protection. and. of. various g u i ld. loyalty,. and it a ls o f a c i l i t a t e d thè levy of i mp o s t s and. d u e s , 3^. The. dose. involvement. c i t y ' s e c o n o m y is of g r ea t. of. thè. Republic. in. thè. s i g n i f i c a n c e to thè h i s t o r i a n. b e c a u s e it g e n e r a t e d a lot of d o c u m e n t a t i o n . A s u f f i c i e n t quantity dose. of t h i s d o c u m e n t a t i o n. has s u r v i v e d. to pe rm i t. a. s t u d y of t h è s e c o n d - h a n d m a r k e t in V enice, w h i c h is. b i b l i o g r a f i a e s t or ia ve ne z i a n a , 13 (Bologna: Forni, 1980), 3, 'Le vesti', p p . 108-9; Schi a v i E b r e i ', p.320. 34 Se e B . C e c c h e t t i , ’I nobili e il p o p o l o di V e n e z i a 1, A r c h i v i o V e n e t o , 3 ( 1 8 7 2 ) , 4 2 1 - 4 8 ( pp .440-1 ); T h r u p p . ' T h e gilds', p.237; V i k t o r I .R u t e n b u r g ,'Arti e c o r p o r a z i o n i 1,in S t o r i a d ' I t a l i a ( T u r i n :E i n a u d i , 1 9 7 3 ) , V: I documenti, I, p p . 6 1 3 - 4 2 (p.626); R a p p , I n d u s t r y , p. 15; B r a u d e l , Perspective, p.135; T ie polo, 'Arti e a r t i g i a n i ’, unpag.; C os t a n t i n i , L’ albero, p.22; M.Dal B o r g o , ’Le c o r p o r a z i o n i e le s c u o l e di arti e m e s t i e r i ' , i n A r t i e m e s t i e r i in V e n ezia (Venice: U n i v e r s i t à P o p o l a r e di V e n e z i a and F o n d a z i o n e Querini S t a m p a l i a , 1991), p p . 15-19 (p.15). ^ Mackenney, Tradesmen, p p .9,13-4,23-9,219-21 ; Massimo Costantini, ’ La s t a t u t a r i a d e l l e c o r p o r a z i o n i v e n e z i a n e m e d i o e v a l i ',in A r t i e m e s t i e r i t radizionali, ed. M a n l i o C o r t e l a z z o , C u l t u r a p o p o l a r e del V e n e t o s e r i e s (Milan: S i l v a n a E d i t o r i a l e , 1 9 8 9 ) , p p . 25-45; Manno, I mestieri, pp. 1617. On t a x e s and o t h e r b e n e f i t s of c on trol, see Tiepolo, 'Arti e a r t i g i a n i ',u n p a g .; S . L u z z a t t o , Di scorso, ff.22v-3r. 14. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(35) not thè c as e for many o ther c i t i e s . 3®. c) The peri od Emmanuel. Le Roy Laduri e has argued that to c o m p r e h e n d thè. structures. of. hi storical Th e. can. structures. in. moder n. p h e n o m e n o n ' t he y. same. go ods. early. be. said. pe as a nt. have to. of. e arly. s o c i et y. be made m o de rn. 'as. an. 'd ynamic'.37. urban. social. Much can be learnt about thè market for used. Venice. by. tracing. its. development. during. thè. sp ec i f i c pe ri o d of thè si xt e e n t h c e n t u r y and thè first half of. thè. seventeenth. century.. This. was. c o n s i d e r a b l e c h an ge over much of Europe.. a. time. of. In Venice, both. thè urban e c o n o m y and thè c i t y' s p o p u l a t i o n un de r w e n t rapid expansion, s ta b i l i t y and graduai stagnation.. T h es e generai. s h i ft s did not f o l lo w r egular p a t t e r n s but we re i n t e rr up te d by a nu m b e r of s h o r t - t e r m cr is e s brought about by plagues, wars,. f a m i n es and recessions.. The u n c e r t a i n p at t e r n s of. d e v e l o p m e n t in V e n i c e in this pe ri o d are one reason why it is. an. appropriate. span. of. time. in. e v o l u t i o n of thè s e c o n d - h a n d market. focusing. on. this. particular. p er i o d. w h ic h. to. study. thè. A n o t h e r reason for is. that. it. e xa c t l y. c o i n c i d e s w i t h an i m po rt an t in te r l u d e in thè h is t o r y of thè V e n e t i a n m a r ke t for used goods.. In. th è. sixteenth. and. * e a rl y s e v e n t e e n t h. 36 On poor E n g li sh records, see Lemire,. centuries. t hè. ' C o n s u m e r i s m ' , p.3.. 37 Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie, 'The p ea sa ntry', in N e w C a m b r i d g e M o d e r n H i s t o r y , XIII, ed. Peter Bu rke (Cambridge: C a m b r i d g e U n i v e r s i t y Pr ess,1979), p p . 115-61 (p.126). 15. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(36) second-hand. market. parti ci p a t i o n b e g i n n i n g of belonging. of. in an. Venice. élite. t h è period,. of. was. J e wi sh. a small. to thè G e r m a n. distinguished dealers.. by. thè. At. thè. n u m b e r of w e a l t h y Jews. n a t i o n or A s h k e n a z i m ,. th è. Ebrei. t e d e s c h i , wa s g r a n t e d p e r m i s s i o n to p r a c t i s e th è u s e d - g o o d s t r a d e as r e s i d e n t s thè f irst of. in V e n i c e . 3®. The. Ebrei. tedeschi w er e. t h r e e n a t i o n s of J ew s a l l o w e d to. Venice during this period. (thè o t h e r t w o b e i n g. s e t t l e in Levantine. and P o n e n t i n e Jews) a nd t h e y w e r e thè o n l y g r o u p p e r m i t t e d to. deal. treatment. in. second-hand. of J ew s. g o o d s . 38. This. d i f fe re nt i al. in V e n i c e was not unusual .. As M a f f i o. M ic hi el , a m e m b e r of t h è V e n e t i a n B o ar d of Trade, o b s e r v e d in 1611, t h è Je ws of th at c i t y were: ’ s e p a r a t e d by housing, t u t e l a g e and m a n a g e m e n t ,. and d i f f e r e d a m o n g t h e m s e l v e s in. J0 The G e r m a n n a t i o n of J e w s wa s m a d e up of I t a l i a n - b o r n Jews a nd Jews of G e r m a n d e s c e n t w h o s e t t l e d in Italy. See J o m t o v L u d o v i c o Bato, ' L ’i m m i g r a z i o n e degli Ebrei tedeschi in I t a l i a dal t r e c e n t o al c i n q u e c e n t o ' , in Scri t t i in m e m o r i a di S a l l y M a y e r (1875-1953), ed. U . N a h o n (Jerusalem, 1 9 5 6 ) , p p . 19-34; C e c i 1 Roth, H i s t o r y o f thè J e w s in Venice, J e w i s h c o m m u n i t i e s s e r i e s (P h i 1a d e l p h i a : J e w i s h P u b l i c a t i o n S o c i e t y of Am er ic a, 1 9 3 0 ) , p . 60; B ri an Pullan, R i c h a n d p o o r in r e n a i s s a n c e V e n i c e : t h è s o c i a l i n s t i t u t i o n s o f a C a t h o l i c state, to 1620 (O xf or d :Basi 1 B 1 a c k w e l 1 , 1 9 7 1 ) , p p . 4 4 3 - 4 ; i dem, The J e w s o f E u r o p e a n d thè Inqui si ti on o f Venice, 1550 - 1 6 7 0 ( Ox f o r d :Basi 1 B l a c k w e l l , 1 9 8 3 ) , p p . 149-50; E .Ashtor, 'Gli inizi d e l l a c o m u n i t à e b r a i c a a Venez i a' , R a s s e g n a M e n s i l e di I s r a e 1, 44( 1 9 7 8 ) , 6 8 3 - 7 0 3 ( p .692); Davi d J a c o b y ,'Les J u i f s à V e n i s e du X IV e au m i l i e u du X V I e s i è c l e ' . i n V enezia c e n t r o di m e d i a z i o n e tra o r i e n t e e o c c i d e n t e (secoli X V X V I ) : a s p e t t i e p r o b l e m i , e d . H . - G . B e c k , M .M a n o u s s a c a s an d A. P e r t u s i , C i v i l t à v e n e z i a n a studi, 32,2 v o l s (Florence: O l s c h k i , 1 9 7 7 ) , I , p p . 1 6 3 - 2 4 7 ( p p . 182-3). 39 On t h è p r i o r e x c l u s i o n of thè Jews, see C h a p t e r 3 below. For t h è t h r e e n a t i o n s and li mi t s on t h e i r a c t i v i t i e s , see Pullan, R i c h a n d poor, p p .443, 510-13, 568 ; idem, Je»vs,pp. 146, 149-50; B e n j a m i n Ravid, 'The legai s t a t u s of t h è J ew i s h m e r c h a n t s of Venice, 1 5 41 -1 63 8' , J o u r n a 1 o f E c o n o m i e History, 35 (1975), 2 7 4 - 9 ( p p . 274-5). 16. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(37) o c c u p a ti on s,. habi ts and v o l i t i o n ' . 40. During thè. period,. o th er less af fl ue nt Ebrei tedeschi p u r s u e d thè s ec o n d - h a n d t r a d e and c o n t i n u e d to do so wa y beyon d thè scope of this s t u d y . 41 m aj or. By. J e w is h. a ct iv ities.. thè. mid-seventeenth. second-hand The. d ea l e r s. period. cov er ed. century, had by. however,. diversified this. thè their. th es i s. was. t h e r e f o r e one of p a r t i c u l a r l y in te n s i v e inv ol ve me nt by Jews in thè V e n e t i a n mark et for used goods.. II.. P ro b i e m s. Setti ng th is study of thè s e c o n d - h a n d market i n a city with s t r on g. medieval. corporative. traditions. durin g. a. period. w h ic h saw great e c o n o m i e and social c h a n g e as w e l 1 as thè e n tr y of a new g r o up of dealers, raises important q ue s t i o n s a bout thè role p l a ye d by g u il ds w i t h i n thè market.. In thè. p a s t , v a r i o u s j u d g e m e n t s have been form ed of thè power of g ui l d s in medieval and e a r l y mode rn c i t ie s and once again Venice. has a t t r a c t e d p a r t i c u l a r. attention.. It has. long. b ee n a s s u m e d that V e n e t i a n guilds held a c o m p l e t e m on o p o i y. ASV, Senato, Terra, f ilza 199, 29 June 1611, report by Michiel, 27 J a n . 1610 [ m v ] : 'separati di h a b i t a t i o n e [sic], di c u s t o d i a et di governo, et tra di loro diversi di p r o f e s si on e, di costumi, et di volont à. .. '. On thè 'diverse synagogues' in thè Ghetto, see T h o m a s Coryat, C o r y a t ' s eru d i t i es, h a s t i l y gobi e d up in fi ve m o n e t h s trav e ! I s in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia... a n d n o w d i s p e r s e d to thè n o u r i s h m e n t o f thè t r a v e ! l i n g m e m b e r s o f this kingdome, 2 vols (Glasgow: J ames Mac Le ho se , 1 9 0 5 ) , I , p . 371 . 41 See ASV, C o m p i l a z i o n e d e l l e Leggi [CL], b.48, Arti in genere, arti r e l a t i v e a varj rami di commercio, e d agli usi, e com o d i del la vi ta ci vi 7e( 1 757) , f ,699v, s t r a z z a r u o l i; ibid. , b.59, A r t i in genere: memorie, d o c u m e n t i , stampe, nd [post 1 7 5 0 j ,f .6 6 6 r . See al so Giovanni Grevemb ro ch , Gli abiti de' Veneziani di quasi ogni età con d i l i g e n z a raccolti e d i p i n ti nel s e c o l o XVIII, 4 voi s (Venice :Fi 1 ippi , 1981 ) , I I I ,n o .63 . 17. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.

(38) of. all. economie. consistently. activity. sough t. to. in. th è. preserve. city. that. and. that. exclusive. t he y. position. i r r e s p e c t i v e of thè e f f e c t t hi s had on t h è u rb an economy. E s t a b l i s h e d his to ri ca l o p i n i o n w o u l d h av e it that as thè international. economy. altered. at. thè. beginning. of. thè. s e v e n t e e n t h century, t h e s e c ra ft m o n o p o i i e s w e r e u n w i l l i n g and u n a b l e to a dapt to c h a n g e and t h u s h a s t e n e d thè ci ty ' s deci ine.. In. L?. recent. years,. c ha l l e n g e d .. thè. second. Professor. of. these. Richard. opinions. Rapp. and. Dr. has. been. Richard. M a c k e n n e y h a v e b o t h i n s i s t e d that V e n e t i a n g u i l d s w e r e much m or e a c c o m m o d a t i n g d u r i n g t ha t d i f f i c u l t p e r i o d than had p r e v i o u s l y b ee n though t. * 3 by. absorbing. actually. excess. softened. th è. Indeed,. labour, i mp a c t. Rapp d e m o n s t r a t e d that. certain of. thè. Venetian h a r sh. trades economie. C a r l o M. Cipolla, 'The d e c l i n e of Italy: thè c a s e of a f ul ly m a t u r e d e conomy', E c o n o m i e H i s t o r y Review, n.s. 5 (1952), 178- 87 (p.183 and n.1); Sella, ' M o u v e m e n t s longs', p p . 41-3,45; idem, Commerci, p p . 62,64-5; F e r n a n d Braudel and o t h e r s . ' L e d é c l i n de V e n i s e au X V I I è m e siècle', in A s p e t t i e c a u s e d e l l a d e c a d e n z a e c o n o m i c a v e n e z i a n a nel s e c o l o X V I I (Venice: I s t i t u t o per la C o l l a b o r a z i o n e C u l t u r a l e , 1961), p p . 2 3 - B 6 ( p p . 8 5 - 6 ) ; idem, W h e e l s o f commerce, p.310; Ralph Davi s , 'Engl and and t h è Medi ter rane an ' ,pp .1 23-4. Se e al so Ugo T u c c i ,'V e n e z i a nel c i n q u e c e n t o : una c i t t à in d u s t r i a l e ? ' , in C r isi e r i n n o v a m e n t i n e l l ’ a u t u n n o del r i n a s c i m e n t o a Venezia, e d . V i t t o r e B r a n c a and C a r l o O s s o l a (Florence: O l s c h k i , 1 9 9 1 ) , pp . 6 1 - 8 3 ( p p . 8 0 - 1 ). R a p p , I n d u s t r y , p p .1 6 , 4 7 - 8 , 1 1 2 ; M a c k e n n e y , T r a d e s m e n , p p .79, 122-5; Tucci, 'Venezia nel c i n q u e c e n t o ' , p p . 68-73. Gigi C or az zo ! c h a l l e n g e d t h è a s s u m p t i o n f ro m a n o t h e r angle: L i v e l l i s t i p u l a t i a V e n e z i a nel 1591: s t u d i o storico, S u p p l e m e n t i di Studi V en e z i a n i (Pisa:G i ar di n i ,1986), p.148. 18. Allerston, Patricia Anne (1996), The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c1500-c1650 European University Institute DOI: 10.2870/79438.