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AWI A L f I
and
I T S V I C I N I T Y
by
AN TO NI O P R O T O
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AM ALFI
Stab. Tip. Umberto Dipino 1930 - Anno V ili
A l l n g h t s r e s e r v e d . E v e r y o u t h e n t i c c o p y o f t h i s
I D ED ICATE THIS HUMBLE W O R K T O M Y D E A R C O U S I N
ANTONIO MILANO
WHOM I SHOULD C E R T A IN L Y H A V E EN llM E R ATE D AMONG TH E IL L U ST R IO U S AmA L F IT A N T S
HAD N O T D E A T H C U T OFF HIS Y O U N G LIFE
p r e f a c e
;
Many o f those who have taken Italian lessons from me have from time to time asked me news con- cerning this city, but it is not always possible to re cord all its glorious history in an improvised conver- sation. This hook will satisfy thè admirable curiosity o f those interested enquirers.
A t thè sanie time it has a wider aim. It exalts thè naturai beauties and thè ancient glories o f a ll thè villages o f this enchant d Coast. A bove a ll is my hope that natives living abroad, especially in Am erica and England, give their sons, nationalised in these lands, a book, which can teli them thè glorious history o f thè land o f their parents and thus in stil within them a great attachment and affection fo r their home land.
I have not written this book in Italian, fo r my fr ien d and felloiv - citizen has already one in hand,
which is soon to be published.
The divine Coast
T h a t part o f thè coast that opens on thè S a lerno g u lf and stretches between V ietri and P o si- lano is called thè Am alfi coast.
It rises from thè sea w ith numerous bays and creeks. Its rocks now rise with high and ja g g ed peaks in thè varied forms that appear thrown by a D ivine hand, now open in immense bulwarks, now ju t out lapped by thè sea w aters like a ribbon of cliffs embroidered by a fairy hand. T ufts o f grass, g ro ves o f ilex and olive - trees, golden oranges, hanging terraces with row s of vines and lemons, p rickly pears, high pine - trees with wide leafy um brellas appear hither and thither on thè rocky cliffs and are reflected in thè emerald water.
Nature alw ays gives us, with her scenes, de- lightful and spiritual pleasure, thè inspiration of poetry, painting, sculpture, and all beautiful arts, but here Nature has surpassed herself. I think no descrip- tion can thoroughly make one feel thè beauties and charm s o f this coast and thè villages rising along it. T o have an idea o f thè effect it produces
on thè new -com er who admires this Paradise, I relate a passage from thè Pisan poet Renato Fucini, w ho drove along thè main road, that, like a ribbon, w inds and clin gs to thè ju ttin gs and indentations o f thè rocks.
“ T h e Am alfi coast - he w rote - g iv es thè .
effect o f gazin g at thè sun - disk; you are dazzled and unable to see anything for some ti me. If you then ask me in w hat consists such a beauty, I an- sw cr as if you had asked: w h y are Hom er’s po^ms beautiful? H om er's poems are beautiful because they are beautiful, and if some one wouid prove it w ith other argum ents teli him he does not understand anything and you w ill not have erred.
A lo n g thè trip between V ietri and Am alfi, one that is over enthusiastic runs thè risk o f “ lo sin g his head A nd there w ere moments when I thought I w as really goin g out o f my mind. T h e road that runs on thè half level o f thè steep mountain- sides, or better, o f thè huge cliffs in some places, com pletely hangs over thè deep sea and almost on thè surface o f this blue carpet, I saw big merchant- men glid in g with their sails all spread, and crew s sw arm ing thè decks, which distance made to appear motionless and diminutive. I felt thè voluptuousness o f an air trip without thè horror o f danger.
N ow and then one encounters so litary ruins o f Norman castles stili standing in spite o f exposure and storm and, here and there, single and v e ry
clcan small houses, whose happy residents, in goin g to thè bill - top, gather thè chestnut, thè plant that signifies thè belt of frigid zones, and, in goin g down thè shore, thè sweet prickly pears, orange flowers to perfutne their little rooms, and thè palm branches that' twine above thè door o f their houses, d rivin g away thunderbolts and w itches.
T h e strands of Maiori, Minori, A trani, Masa niello' s country, that w e meet along thè w ay are thè most charming and picturesque sights in thè World.
T hose quic-t and sm iling groups o f houses that, like goats, climb froin thè sea up thè rocky steeps, thè domes of those chnrches that are surrounded with majolica ?nd shine in thè sunlight and are surrounded with citrons, k-mons and oranges, thè stsep by - paths that descend w inding to thè shore, w h ere a quiet group o f fishermen w ork and sing amid row s o f nets that reflect thè sun, give an ineffable jo y, a serene peace, such a sensation of beatitude enters and presses our heart so sw eetly that little by little we feel compelled to pass our life on those shores and even to die there, although thè idea o f death seeins so strange on those magic banks. T he day that thè Am alfitani go to Paradise is on ly to them a day like any other day.
Hovv sweet must be idleness in thè shadow o f an Am alfi olive tree ! Indeed if those inhabitants are able to earn a living only by thè sweat of
their brow, w e have to recognize they have a great virtue, for thè one pow erful desire that is felt in that climate is thè need of doing nothing; surely Adam ’ s life before thè fall.
T h e access of contem plative ecstasy before such a luxuriant gift of Nature ’s generosity is follow ed b y a w ild enthusiasm.
A n d I do not know w hat I should have either said or done had not my companion ’s counten- ance restrained me. He had opened his mouth only once, at thè beginning o f our jo u rn ey to ask me to allow him to low er thè hood of thè carriage!,,
Amalfi
“ O f Am alfi I have a great vision of sea, sky
and glory! A lso I passed - an unknown pilgrim - through your town, I lodged at thè " L u n a ,, hotel, I kneeled down in your large cathedral “ republican „ imperiai, marine. I trudged thè “ V ia dei Mulini „ and o f those hours I have but a m em ory and thè strongest desire to return! Dear, dear, adorable Amalfi!,, so in 1921 Benito Mussolini w rote to thè Am alfi Fascist Secretary, Mr. Nicola Ingenito.
A n d thè Am erican poet L on gfello w sings: « Sweet thè memory is to me
of a land beyond thè sea,
where, thè waves and mountains meet, where, amid her mnlberry - trees Sits Amalfi in thè heat »
Am alfi lies in thè centre o f this divine coast. It lies ensconced between tw o sloping hills that advance into thè sea. O n m oonless nights they give to thè fancy o f an artist thè fantastic illusion o f a syren abandoning h erself to thè em brace of a ma- gician, w hile thè sea caresses her feet with its
w aves as they break in foam on thè marina: and thè eiectric lights tw in klin g from end to end o f thè town appear to adorn thè syren w ith a shining pearl necklace.
E ve ry day and severa! times a day new beauties, new sensations and new enjoym ents are reserved for thè traveller w ho has thè good fortune to reach this enchanted place.
He stands enchanted at day - break, when thè faint hues o f thè sk y are g ro w in g b righter and when thè sun rises like a fìre ball behind thè lo w - est part o f thè mountain range, w hile thè opposite hill - tops begin to glo w with gold and thè sea to reflect thè colours of thè sky.
He thinks he is entering a fairy w orld when, after havin g passed through V ia Pietro Capuano, he threads thè narrow road beside thè river C an neto and admires thè picturesque bridges above thè stream, thè numerous sparkling w ater falls, thè vineyards above thè slopes on thè opposite hills, thè orange groves, thè many coloured flowers, thè green w alls of thè terraces covered w ith creepers, and with maidenhair fern gro w in g thickly along thè bank, thè white buildings of a paper - mill w ith thè ceaseless rum bling of thè w heels w or- ked b y thè w ater - falls. A n d if he clim bs up thè Madonna del R osario as far as thè depth o f thè v a lley he has a d elightfully new and unxpected sight. T here thè va lley widens, surrounded w ith a
circle of mountains clacl with bushes and raising their peaks irregu larly into thè air, and thè brook merrily rushes and leaps between its stony banks. Nature is in a wild mood, but it is not unpleasing to thè eye, as one enjoys this change o f scene.
A ll Amalfìtan view s are beautiful, but thè A m al fi sunsets are divinely beautiful and suprem ely enchanting. W h en ever w e have thè chance w e remain estatic. D own on thè horizon thè sky sets as in flames, that vanish into a thousand hues, from scarlet red to thè daintiest and lightest yellow , that softly blends into thè blue o f thè sky. W hat attracts our eye is thè incessant and scarcely perceptible change of colour in ever daintier tints. A n d all those hues and colours reflect into thè sea, w hile some stray cloudlets appear as flaming pennons w aving in thè sk y and thè d yin g sunbeams gild thè tips o f thè mountains opposite.
Il is surely a feast of colours, tints and reflections. A t night when thè smooth surface of thè sea is dotted with countless lights from fishing - boats and thè sky shines with thousands of sparkling stars our soul soars on thè w in gs of our fancy and w e dream, dream, dream.
In thè morning a sense o f strange peace and serene jo y thrills us as w e admire thè boundless ocean on w hich thè sunbeams shed their light and thè rippling w aves that shine and sparkle like shim m ering plates.
E veryw h ere harm ony o f varied colours, reflect- ions of pageant lights, b irdsJ songs, rustling o f leaves lig h tly moved by thè breeze, and a stillness that w ould be w earisom e w ere it not broken b y thè noise o f cars on thè w inding road with people of all nations that, w ith sm iling appreciation, enjoy, exult, and silently bless thè God, who has given this land a portion o f his Paradise.
The origin of Amalfi
T h e nymph Am alfi, that was born like V enus from thè sea foams, fell in love with H erculus so ferven tly that she consumed h erself and lost all her beauty. She appeared and then died on this coast w hich took her name.
T h u s a popular legend explains Am alfi ’s origin. A ccord in g to thè soundest judgm ents thè life o f Am alfi began about thè IV th century on thè fall o f thè Roman Empire, and exactly in thè era of Constantine, when many Roman fam ilies transferred their abode to thè new capitai. Som e of those fam i lies em barking on five vessels w ere overtaken by a gale and thrown upon thè Dalmatian coast, near Ragusa. But three years later, they left Dalmatia and steered to thè land near Palinuro, on thè river bank of Melphes, w here they founded a village that
they called Melfi, and thè inhabitants took thè name o f " Melfitani „ T hat settlement is called old Am alfi. Then they abandoned Melfi and went to Eboli, but they needed a sheltered place for protection against thè barbarians, who freely raided thè peninsula. So it was that they climbed thè mountain Lattari and, through thè mountains, arrived at Cam a hills - now Scala - astride o f Am alfi. Here they obtained thè hospitallity of thè people. But thè scarceness of thè products o f thè soil and thè grow th of thè people forced them to descend to thè sea shore, w here they founded a new town, and to become sea farers.
On thè sea they found riches, honour and g lo ry !
The most iniportant historical summary
On Decem ber i st, 833 Am alfi w as constituted into a free R epublic. She w as ruled b y tw o rettori or presidi, then called praefecturi, w ho w ere elected for two years, but if they gave proof o f bad ma nagement they w ere forced to resign sooner. T h e y were assisted by a Giunta or Consiglio di giu d ici or comites. E lections took place at A trani in St. Salvator chusch, w hich stili exists, but it retains nothing o f that ancient Parliament.then thè election w as for life and later on Manso- ne II took thè name of Giudice and w ith thè popular favour proclaimed thè charge hereditary. In 958 Sergio, b y thè help o f a plot, took thè title o f D oge and in a short time thè Republic became aristocratic.
In 848 thè Am alfitans went to T aranto w ith their vessels and b y stratagem they freed Siconolfo, D uke of Salerno, w ho trium phantly entered Salerno, w here he w as proclaimed prince o f thè town.
In 849 for thè second time a horde o f Saracen raiders threatened Rome, but thè fleets o f Am alfi, Naples and G aeta betimes w arned by Pope Leone IV w ere before Ostia, and thè saiiors, after havin g had thè H oly Host b ravely fought and defeated thè Saracens. T h e prisoners w ere obliged to buiid thè w alls around and stili now adays it is called “ città
leonina „ after Pope Leone. A n illustrious historian
called thè O stia fight “ thè most famous sea victory obtained by thè Christians over thè heathen before thè battle o f Lepanto. „
In 920 and 936 thè Amalfi fleet w as v e ry pow erful and, w ith thè help o f thè G reeks, then of thè Néapolitans and thè Pugliese, b ravely fought against thè Saracen raiders till they w ere driven from thè ltalian coast.
In 1043 Guaim aro, Prince o f Salerno, availing him self of internai discords occupied first Am alfi, then Sorrento, and proclaim ed him self Duke of thè Am alfitans and Sorrentins.
She succeeded in reacquiring her independence mostly by chance, but it w as for a short time. T h e Norman R obert Guiscard, w ho had conquered S icily, and Apulia, forty years later took Am alfi deceitfully and allowed his soldiers to sack thè w ealthy town. Then he ordered thè assault on thè fortresses o f Scala and Ravello. Hard w as thè resistance and terrible w as thè revenge o f thè victors.
In 1027 Amalfi, taking advantage o f thè discords between thè Northmen R o g er and Raymond, reac- quired her independence. It w as at that time that thè expedition o f Pisans, Genoese, and a large colony of Am alfitans took place against thè Saracen Tim in. T he expedition was led b y thè noble Am alfitan Com ite Pantaleon o f Mauro, w ho at that period took thè bronze doors to thè Am alfi Cathedral.
It w as oi no value to Am alfi to reacquire her independence again because in n o i R o ger treache- ro u sly siezed Am alfi. T h e greatest injury conse- quen tly carne to her when thè Pisan fleet, summoned by R obert and thè Neapolitans against R oger, being aw are that thè Am alfitan fleet by R o ger ’s order w as far off, assailed and sacked Am alfi, A trani, and S cala. R avello ( once a city o f 30.000 inhabitants ) held out till thè m ilitary aid sent by R oger arrived from S ic ily and thè Pisans w ere put to flight. B u t thè rich plunder w as not w rested from thè raiders.
A second time, in 1137, thè Pisan fleet w a s called in by Naples and Capua, and sacked Am alfi,
Scala, R avello, Minori, Maiori, and almost destroyed Atrani. T h e y took aw ay gold, silver, brocades, sacred arras and, w hat w as more grievous stili, thePandects o f Justinian that Am alfi so jealo u sly kept. T h is plunder w as for thè Pisans stili more precious for they perhaps learned thè secret of thè compass that only thè Am alfitans knew thanks to its invention by her native F lavio Gioia.
S he never more reacquired her independence, and her great pow er and g lo ry vanished slow ly. H er commerce, contrasted w ith thè other flourishing sea R epublics, lost ground in thè W est; thè struggles among thè countries on her coast raged harshly and caused sad consequences, for, siding w ith one or another dominator, exposed her to dangers and injuries w ithout recompense; raids o f thè rivai R e publics w ere frequent and terrible and despoiled Am alfi and thè other cities on thè coast. A s if this w ere not enough for thè unfortunate R epublic, Nature added a v e ry evil calam ity. On N ovem ber 24th, 1343 a horrible storni dam aged all thè Neapolitan Coast, engulfing more than h alf of Am alfi and hastening thè R epublic ’s decline.
In 1544 thè fierce Saracen K a ir Eddin, known by thè name o f Ariodeno Barbarossa, thè commander o f Solim ano ’s fleet, an aliy o f Francis I, against Charles V, after manifold raids and pillages, spread- ing everyw h ere carnage and destruction, presented himself, w ith his terrible fleet before Am alfi w ith thè
aim of assailing and ravagin g it. T h e notary Batti- m elli relates that thè sea w as cairn and thè sky serene, when suddenly a terrible storm burst and thè majority o f thè fleet w as either sunk or damaged, and Barbarossa had to escape and give up his grim purpose. T h e same notary Battim elli also asserts that thè storm did not occur by chance, but it was a miracle o f St. A n drew , thè protector o f thè city, who appeared on thè shore and invoked G od’ s aid in favour of thè w retched R epublic.
H ence e very year on June 27“* to this day, religious and civil feasts take place at Am alfi, with thè greatest solem nity in honour of St. A n drew . T he other great annual festa is on his day N o- vem ber 30 .th
Maritime and commercial power
T h e jurisdiction o f thè R epublic extended from V ietri, on one side, to Positano, on thè other, and included even thè isle o f Capri and thè Sirenuse ( now i G alli ), and inland comprised R avello, Scala, Lettere, Tram onti, A gero la and G ragnano. On thè eastern and w estern side Am alfi possessed large ship - yards with suitable stores and m achinery for her vessels. G alleys and merchant - men w ere built for thè needs o f thè large commerce and her m ilitary kingdom on thè sea. Most of thè galleys
w ere for 112 row ers, but there w ere some for 120 and 200, thè sm allest for 70. T h e flag w as blue w ith a transverse red strip flanked with thè cross o f St. A n d re w and thè compass.
T h e towns w ere defended w ith fenced w alls and fortresses besides thè tow ers along thè coast. A t night thè approach of thè enem y w as signalled with fire signals among thè fortresses and castles. T h e sea towns provided thè sailors, w hile thè inland tow ns gave thè land soldiers. T h e compass secured navigation for thè Am alfi vessels, w hich touched thè furthest harbours and havens. T h e y exported thither European products and took back spices, drugs, perfumes, Persian silks, E gyptian carpets, precious stones, amber, ivory, skins, all those products brought to Constantinople or to E gyp t from A sia and Persia.
In thè X Ilh century G uglielm o di P u g lia so w rote of Am alfi “ T h is town is full of people and riches: and no city abounds so in gold, silver and precious cloth. Its numerous sailors have buildings in e very country in thè w orld and are v e ry clever in finding out thè w ays o f thè sea and thè sky. T h e y bring over Antiochian and Alessandrian pro ducts o f export, they overpass thè furthest straits and are known in A rabia and -in thè Indies not less than in S ic ily and A frica „ .
D esiderio, A bbot o f M ontecassino, w ho after- w ards became Pope V icto r III, w hen he had to
(Sam aritani) AM ALFI ■ Ancient dockyard, now a garage
present gifts to thè Em peror H enry IV purposely carne to Am alfi for his purchases.
During feasts such as a prince ’s wedding, or a Pope ’s journey, or court receptions, thè squares and streets w ere draped w ith Arabian stuffs, Syrian purple cloths, and precious silks.
On thè solemn entrance of Callisto II into B e nevento thè Am alfitans, w ho w ere great traders there, adorned thè streets with w onderful silks and burned rare perfumes in gold and silver censers.
They had shops, streets, establishm ents, banks, and even entire quarters at Jerusalem, Constanti- nople, A cre, Cyprus, S oria T rip oli, Durazzo, Cairo, etc. It might be said there w as nò w estern harbour, w here thè Am alfitans had not a shop, a colony, and a church.
Their vessels, like those of thè other sea towns, carried crusaders to thè H o!y Land. T herefo re thè Amalfitans obtained exemptions and p rivileges in that land from those Christian K in g s and Princes.
Beyond their own quarter, they had at Jerusalem thè convent and ghurch of S . M aria la Latina, thè monastery and church o f S . M aria Maddalena, a hospice for men, a hospice for women and thè hospital w ith a small chapel under tho protection o f
5
'. Giovanni l ’Elemosiniere, w h ere F ra Gerardo Sasso founded thè O rder o f thè H ospitalers.These buildings rose near thè church of thè Holy Sepulchre and w ere included under thè name
Della Latina. A ll trace would have been lost as thes e
ancient and glorious buildings cru m b lei into decay, but for thè actions o f thè two present ch ief leaders o f Am alfi. M onsignor Ercolano Marini, A rchbishop o f Am alfi, had thè opportunity o f leading a pilgri- mage to thè H oly Land in M ay of last year and thè Podestà of Am alfi, Comm. Francesco G argano, had thè happy idea o f sending w ith him a bronze tablet to be placed on thè modern church o f Santa Maria Latina to remind posterity of our glorious Am alfi.
I translate one passage from “ I l mio pellegri
naggio in Terra Santa „ by A rchbishop Marini
him self and hope thè kind reader w ill not be w earied by this digression.
“ Santa M aria Latina. May 31, 1928. It is thè graceful Italian church sprung from thè genius of architect B arlizzi and arisin g near thè new Italian hospital in thè charge of thè estim able “ O pera per la protezione dei m issionari all’estero „ .
It recalls to us thè ancient S. M aria Latina, thè
gerosolimitano poem o f Am alfi that w e must recite.
T h e pilgrim s are present and along w ith them are thè Italian colony and schools, thè representatives of thè Patriarchate, thè Custode o f thè H oly Land, and thè G eneral Consul of Italy. T h e church has taken a g a y and solemn aspect.
A fter h avin g celebrated thè mass I bless thè bronze tablet, already fixed on thè left w all d o se
to thè entrance. Beforehand I had visited thè cloister, thè facade, thè site of thè ancient S. Maria Latina, now in thè hands o f thè Protestants: I had visited thè church o f S. G iovanni built in thè form o f a Shamrock, now in thè hands o f thè Schism atics; I had visited thè quarter and thè shops o f thè ancient Am alfitans, now in thè hands of thè Jew and thè Arabs; then I could not keep silent and had to express m yself in these w ords o f which I give you a short summary. T h e Commune o f A m al fi - I said - ought not to be absent from thè pil- grim age managed by its Archbishop and by an exquisite thought has sent an artistic bronze tablet. There is reproduced in relief thè monumentai facade o f our Cathedral for, in thè Middle A g e s, when thè Faith swayed all social life, thè Cathedral was thè centre o f every activity and bold entreprise. There is also reproduced thè sea of Am alfi with thè Amalfitan galleys in act of leavin g for Palestine, this being thè crow ning g lo ry o f that coast called divine because of thè beauties o f Nature.
History has surrounded thè people o f thè ancient Republic with a garland. T h is seafaring race who, on thè fall o f thè Roman Empire, became thè arbiters o f thè Mediterranean, this seafaring race w ho sent their merchants to thè main towns of thè East, this seafaring race full of Southern ardour could enthuse thè Latin quarter around thè H oly S ep u l- chre and rebuild from its foundations thè church
o f S. Maria Latina, built o rigin ally b y thè Em peror C harles thè Great.
H ow admirable are these men w ho w h ile they cared for temporal interests yet had eternai interests at heart as w ell. T h e hardship o f pilgrim s and thè sufferings o f thè sick moved their hearts. It w as for them that they built near b y thè church of S. G io vanni, which is thè most ancient monument o f thè V Ith and VIIth century, an hospital to achieve this doublé purpose.
Here is one of thè most beautiful glories of Am alfi because thè nursing O rders, so tender with thè sufiferers, when thè hostile forces rush in, are ready to brandish thè sw ord against enem ies o f Christ. So thè Crusades added a m ilitary character to their Institution.,,
Even at Constantinople they had their own quarter w ith a Convent o f Benedictines and another o f Cistercians and thè churches o f St. A n d re w and S. Maria della Latina.
Further thè Am alfitans settled their commerce at Siracusa, Palerm o, Catania, Cefalù, Messina, Naples, Trani, Barletta, Molfelta, Melfi, Brindisi, Bitonto, Cosenza, R eggio, Bari, Benevento, Capua, etc. and they even had their own quarter in some o f thè above mentioned towns.
W hen thè fortunes of Am alfi w ere declining and her trade w as hardly beset b y thè V enetians and thè Genoese, thè Am alfitans increased their
commerce in South Italy to balance thè g ro w in g losses. T h u s she was rich even after h avin g lost her independence and pow er on thè seas.
Amalfi, maestra di diritto. Her coins.
T h e continued and gorgeous developm ent of thè maritime commerce, that about thè year iooo w as unrivalled and extensive, compelled thè Amalfitans to rule such a commerce with peculiar law s and regulations, that w ere collected in one volum e calledTabula Am alfa. T h is represents a reai standard o f
w ise maritime and commercial legislation. T h e law s collected in thè Tabula A m alfa concern cost, freight, captain ’s and sailor ’s duties, charges o f insurance, exchange, compensation for sea risks, average, losses of ship and merchandise in case o f danger etc. T h e y felt thè need o f a Court to discuss these litigations. T h e law ful Court, w as thè Maritime Consulate which had jurisdiction internally and abroad. T h e y had thè privilege o f their own Courts w ith their own Consuls in A creon, Jerusalem, some Southern Italian towns, and elsewhere.
A n appendix, added to thè Tabula, dealt with naval w arfarew ith regulations regarding theharbour, thè fleet, sailors, arms, victuals, discipline, etc.
W ith other M editerranean towns Am alfi formed maritime contracts, w hich sometimes w ere reai treaties.
— 2.6 —
If thè Tabula A m alfa and thè appendix w ere thè basis o f thè commercial righ t and naval w arfare, thè Consuetudini ( municipal law s ) w ere thè basis o f public and private rights: but they w ere not common to thè towns o f thè Republic since some, especially R avello, had their own charters. T h e
Consuetudini w ere founded on thè famous D igest
o f Justinian that thè Am alfitans either stole or bought from Constantinople, and w hen they w ere in- sufficient to settle any controversy thè Roman right w as recognized by thè D igest. T h is is even called
Pandette d i Giustiniano or Pandette Am alfitane for
Am alfi kept it until thè year 1137 when thè Pisans seized it.
Am alfi boasts o f having discovered thè most precious source o f Roman laws, from w hich thè revived studies o f Jurisprudence o f that day bene- fitted greatly.
T h e Pandects o f Justinian w ere taken b y thè Florentines later on, and now they are kept in thè Laurentian L ib rary o f Florence.
T h e origin ai entry o f thè Tabula A m alfa ad- joined to thè Consuetudini has been kept for long in thè A u strian Imperiai L ib rary, but last year, it w as rescued and is soon to be handed over to thè risin g H istorical Museum o f Am alfi.
Am alfi was thè first to issue coins among thè ancient Italian R epublics and probably even thè v e ry first since thè fall o f thè Roman Em pire. T h e
oiigin o f her mint is thought to be about thè X th century. T h e far etto or tari w as her coin. It w as a tiny shaped coin cast in gold or silver, both its faces bore thè cross of thè H ospitalers O rd er ( now thè Maltese cross ). Around thè cross on one side w as written “ Civitas „ and on thè other “ Am alfia „. It was accepted throughout thè world.
A fter having lost her independence, she kept thè privilege of minting her own coins until 1321, when Frederic II abolished them and thè Brindisian coins replaced them in circulation.
Somè copper coins in thè period o f Mansone III and Mansone IV th are kept in several collections and thè tareuo, thè only specimen discovered by thè illustrious Am alfitan historian Matteo Cam era is kept by his fam ily with a series o f A n gev in and other ancient coins.
111ustrious Amalfitans.
Beato Gerardo Sasso. T h e Am alfitans had great influence in Jerusalem, and besides churches and institutions built in form er times, had a chapel and hospital dedicated to S. G iovanni l’Elem osinlere: their friar G erardo Sasso founded thè O rd er o f H ospitalers ( or o f S. G iovanni ). He w as thè first prior o f thè O rder, and gallan tly led his votaries to fight against thè heathen. T h e O rder, through thè long and hard defence o f Christendom , passed to that of thè K n ights ot C yprus, o f Rodi and then o f Malta, w hich traces its far origin to thè pious and brave Am alfitan friar G erardo Sasso. He w as stili alive w hen thè O rd er w as recognized b y thè Patriarch o f Jerusalem and carne under thè protection of thè H oly S ee b y thè Bull o f Calisto II (1113).
He anticipated thè Crusades in defending thè H oly Sepulchre, a v e ry courageous task at that time, for thè hordes o f thè Selgu cid e T u rk s w ere invading Palestine, and, w hen thè T u rk s defeated thè A rabs and sacked Jerusalem, m any H ospitalers w ere mas- sacred, and friar Sasso him self w as made a prisoner.
(S am aritan i) AM ALFI - The Cathedral
He w as saved and then continued his task with greater enthusiasm. In thè first Crusade, in May 1099, he w as at thè head of his H ospitalers with thè sw ord and thè Christian sym bol at thè assault upon Jerusalem.
W hen G od frey de Bouillon w as proclaim ed K ing o f Jerusalem, he sent F riar Sasso as hostage to A zor. F riar G erardo Sasso accepted this sacrifice with hum ility for C h rist ’s sake. T h e faithless enemy refused to send him back, and crucified him. He w as thought to be dead and his body sent to Jerusalem, w here he w as healed o f his wounds and, although lame and crippled, resumed his mission in assisting thè sick and wounded.
His fame spread abroad and numerous patricians flocked to him and received thè black cassocks with thè white cross from his hand, and so thè O rder increased in all S yria.
T h e saintly and courageous friar died on July I 9t 1120. On thè fall o f thè kingdom o f Jerusalem his body w as carried to Rodi, and, when this isle was lost, w as transferred to thè church of Manosca in Provence (France).
His O rder had many transformations andchanged its name several times, finally taking that o f thè K nights o f Malta, and suffered struggles, persecutions, and martyrdoms, but it continued thè high and strenuous mission begun by Gerardo Sasso, and w as for ever in thè East a Christian bulw ark against thè invading barbarian Mussulmans.
Cardinal Pietro Capuano - Studied at Bologna and Paris, and w as beloved b y Popes Clem ent III and Celestino II for his learning and his severe and w ise character. T h e form er appointed him his private chaplain.
In 1192 Pietro Capuano w as elected to thè high charge of Cardinal. T hen he w as selected for thè most delicate and difficult missions. He visited S icily , Lom bardy, Poland, Bohem ia and w ent tw ice to Fran- ce: thè second time he induced Philip A u gu stu s and R ichard Coeur de Lion to make peace and succeeded in m eeting them at V enon on thè Senne; Philip A u gustus on horse back and R ichard in a boat.
He w ent w ith thè Cardinal o f Santa Prassede to Constantinople on a mission from Pope Celestino III w ith full pow er to heal thè schism o f thè G reek Church. D u ring his stay at Constantinople he paid a visit to thè H oly Places and gathered m any relics, am ong w hich w as thè entire body o f St. A n drew . W hen he w ent back to R o m e , his boat w as escorted b y nine Am alfitan galleys as far as Gaeta. T h e re Cardinal Capuano ordered them to carry thè b o d y of St. A n d rew to Am alfi and hand it over to Matteo Capuano, his uncle, w ho w as then A rchbishop o f Amalfi.
On May 8th 1208 with solemn feasts thè precious body w as buried in thè crypt in thè Cardinal ’s presence.
native town. He had thè crypt built, enlarged thè Cathedral, instituted thè A b b ey o f St. Peter o f thè. Canonica (now hotel Cappuccini) and an hospital with thè church of Santa Maria della M isericordia and began thè construction o f thè harbour.
Recalled to Rome he died there on A u gu st 17, 1217.
A bust o f Cardinal Pietro Capuano stands on thè left w all o f thè atrium o f thè Cathedral, a per petuai reminder to thè Am alfitans o f thè great deeds and earnest love for his native Country of this eminent benefactor.
* * *
Flavio Gioia - Is thè great inventor o f thè compass that enabled mankind to extend navigation and so opened thè route to A m erica for Christopher Columbus.
Much discussion and many polemics have arisen am ong modern historians and scholars w ho are divided in two camps, those in support and those in opposition. T h e strongest opponent is Padre Bertelli. But although he denies thè existence of Flavio Gioia, he affirms thè Am alfitans w ere thè first to use thè compass. I translate his own w ords - ... thè compass is o f such importance that w e may rightly assert an Am alfitan genius invented a new instrument. - T h is is not thè place to discuss thè matter, but from B ertelli ’s conclusion, I deduce that
thè inventer o f thè compass w as w ith all probability an Am alfitan. W hether he w as named F lavio G ioia ro, as some suggest, G iovanni G ioia, it is stili for thè g lo ry o f Am alfi.
Am alfi righ tly honoured its great citizen in raising a superb monument in thè square in front o f thè sea.
* * *
T h e small size o f this w o rk does not allow me to mention all thè Am alfitans that honoured their native country in letters, Science, and art and carried their boats in search o f new lands.
I choose thè greatest as Giovanni Augustariccio ( 1210 - 1282) learned in ju rid ic and medicai Science, w ho reform ed thè “ Consuetudini „ Giovanni Vacca, an illustrious juriconsult in thè public study of Naples, Romolo Albizzo a G overnm ent ofiìcer, Orsini Bemba ( 1275 - 1281 ), Marco Bemba, a v e ry rich and brave sailor, thè follow ing patricians on whom thè m ilitary belt w as conferred as a sign o f their proved value and their nobility Pietro, Matteo, Andrea and T o maso Capuano (1236 - 1285 - 1371), Giovanni Favaro (1352), Franzone d’Alagno (1360), Giacomo and T o maso Carbone, brothers, (1324) Carlo del Giudice (1341) Mariana Corsaro (i333)> Ruggiero Cappasanta (1340), Francesco del Giudice (i344)> Andrea del Giudice (1422), Pietro Brancia (1420), his son Fran cesco Brancia (1427), Giacomo de Cuncto (1482), thè
( S a m a r it a n i) Bronze doors o f th è cathedral o f Am alfi
(S am aritan i)
B aptism al font in th è cathedral o f Am alfi m ade o f one p iece o f porphyry
following w ho gained thè title o f “ sire „ N iccolò de Penna (1368), Giacom o Quatrario (1382) Marcuc- cio de Gulioso (1389) Cicco Rizzolo (1394), V alente Issalla etc.; then thè gallant Captain Buffillo del Giudice (1466), thè brave w arriors Dom enico and
Damiano d’Afflitto, M arcello Bonito, learned in letters, history, archeology, paleografy, a charkable man who has thè merit o f inducing thè Am alfitans
to defend themselves, thè follow ing K nights of Malta
Friar Fabio del G iudice (1591) Friar Francesco d ’Afflitto (1591 - 1618), F riar Filip po B onito (1632 - 1698) Friar Dom enico B onito (1691); thè statesman
Giovanni de Cunto, D octor and Captain Giacomo de Cunto, N icola Pagliam inuta, w ho did his utmost to improve thè state of thè roads, A n ton io M ilano,
famous juriconsult, Matteo V ito lo , knight and pre- ceptor of thè H ospitalers of Rodi, thè painters
G iacom o de Persico, G iovann i de Forno, Tobita
and V incento di Ponte, A n gelo D ’ Am ato o f Maiori, Piettro Capuano, M arino del G iudice, Landolfo Mairramaldo, Ludovico Bonito etc. and thè illus- trioois contem porary Matteo Camera thè renowned hisltorian o f thè Coast.
* * *
Matteo Camera. W a s bora at Am alfi on De- cember 20, 1807. A t thè age o f 22 he obtained thè degree o f engineer at N aples U niversity, but more than in mathematics and com passes he w as
talent-ed in letters, philosop hy, h isto ry , paleography, numismatics, literature, p h ilo lo gy and foreign lan- guages. A lso he studied music and painting: in fact he played thè violoncello and painted fair w ater - colours. His fam ily stili retain many o f his paintings among them a collection o f pictures representing thè difierent fruits o f thè Coast.
Matteo Cam era w as o f m any parts. He united love for everyth in g beautiful, a kind and affectionate character to a strict study and severe talent and at thè same time did not dislike jokes and subtil witticism s.
He lived a long time at Naples and spent his time there in historical researches, especially in thè A rch ives, till his hard w o rk w as hindered b y thè Borbonic G overnm ent that w as suspicious o f him and o f other learned men of that time, w ho tried to trace thè past g lo ry and sad vicissitudes o f their beloved land amidst old charters, documents and records.
In 1843 he married Miss Gaetana dei Marchesi Ventapane o f Naples and w ent back to Am alfi. No child rejoiced their lives.
Matteo Cam era continued his favourite studies and carefu lly searched for old m anuscripts and records am ong ancient churches, m onasteries and private archives and at thè same time did not miss an opportunity o f enjoying fishing and shooting. He alw ays defrayed expenses for such researches and
w as on frien dly terms w ith thè chief historical, literary, and scientific scholars o f that day. Don Pedro, Em peror o f Brazil, who carne to Am alfi in 1872, had Matteo Cam era for his guide and greatly admired his profound learning.
Matteo Cam era took part in public life as inspector of excavation in thè province o f Salerno and as Communal Counseller, and both charges he undertook with wisdom and probity.
W hen in 1861 thè facade o f thè Cathedral fell, his archeological know ledge w as o f vast use for he traced thè Byzantine lines o f thè new facade for thè illustrious Enrico Albino, attended to thè execution o f thè w o rk and then had thè jo y o f seein g thè w ork achieved in 1891.
He w rote several w orks o f great historical value among w hich are.
(*) H istorical and diplomatic memories of thè ancient T ow n and D u chy of Am alfi - two volumes of 800 pages each.
(**) H istorical and chronological ephemeries for each day, month, and year - octavo 646 pages.
(***) A n n als of thè T w o Sicilies from 10x7 to 1285 two volum es.
H e also w rote many historical articles for
“ A rte e Storia „ ;
He died on Decem ber 2ad, 1891 at thè age o f 84 leavin g m any historical manuscripts concerning thè Am alfi Coast and Southern Italy, which, if
published, would g iv e new light to historical Science. T h e follow in g epigraph is w ritten on thè front o f his house in Piazza Duomo.
I n q u e s t a c a s a
NACQUE IL DÌ XXI XBRE MDCCCVII E VISSE PER O TT A N T A Q U A T T R O ANNI
M A T TEO CAMERA
BENEMERITO E INSIGNE CITTADINO S A LU T A T O DAGLI ITALIAN I E DAGLI STRANIERI
ARCHEOLOGO E NUMISMATICO PROFONDO E SCR ITTOR E DOTTISSIMO DI STO R IA NAZIONALE
RICONOSCENTE
d e l l’o p e r a DA LUI D ATA
A PER PETUARE NELLA COSCIENZA DEI POSTERI IL LU STR O CHE EBBE AmALFI
T R A LE C IT T À MARINARE DELL’ IT A L IA MERIDIONALE NELLA NAVIGAZIONE E NEI COMMERCI
i l Mu n i c i p i o A m a l f i t a n o
POSE Q UESTA MEMORIA DEL SUO STORIOGRAFO IL DÌ D E DICEMBRE MDCCCXCIV
(In this house - w as born on Decem ber 21 M D C C C V II - and lived for eigh ty - four years - Matteo C a mera - m eritorious and illustrious citizen - greeted b y Italians and foreign ers - profound archeologist and numismatist - and learned national w riter - in gratitude - for thè w o rk given b y him - to perpe tuate in thè minds o f future generations - thè lustre
( S a m a r it a n i) AM ALFI - (Chiostro Paradiso) A n cien t urn representing thè rape o f Proserpine
that Amalfi enjoyed - among thè maritime towns of Southern Italy - in navigation and trade - thè Amalfitan T ow n h all - placed this memorial to its historian - on Decem ber 2 M D C C C X C IX ).
R ecently a bronze bust to Matteo Cam era has been placed in thè public garden. (*)
Artists of Amalfi
Pietro Scopetta. W as born at Am alfi on Fre- buary i5 ,h 1863.
For him A r t had fascination. He w rites thus o f it “ A r t is, above all, strength o f sentiment, enthusiasm, absorbing sensibility. A r t is thè soul, thè emotion of thè y earn in g soul „ A n d then " F o r tunate is he w ho has thè steadfast desire, and can pursue it eagerly w ith its com pelling power. T h e desire stated sim ply is thè desire of trasm itting an emotion.
The intensity, thè quality, thè tenacity of that • desire makes thè w o rk o f a genius. T h e desire itself
(*) I t is ou t o f proportion to th è Greek colum n on w h icli it standS, as thè C om m itee th a t raised th è m onum ent iutended to shorfcen tlie colum n and p n t th è bu st on one o f th è tw o stum ps. T his w as forbidden and th è Com m ittee ordered th è tin y b u st to be placed w here it is. L ot us hope a w orthier monumenti ■vrill soon arise.
is a spark o f genius. F e w have thè inexhaustible desire that goes beyond thè w o rk o f A r t like Leonardo or M ichelangelo „.
He gave up engineering to follow this vocation. He w as tw o-an d -tw en ty when he became a member o f thè glorious com pany created in Rom e b y Sam- m aruga, among whom w ere D A n n u n zio , Michetti, Matilde Serao, Eduardo S carfo glio etc.
He w as endowed w ith an earnest soul and was fond o f a w andering life. He w andered abroad for tw elve years w ith sojourns at London and Paris, his especial love.
Scoppetta w as thè artist o f Am alfi, thè artist w ith his soul full o f thè songs and thè lights, thè beauties and thè colours of thè gorgeous landscapes o f his country: his pictures have all thè luminous charm o f his native land. He w as not only a painter, but also a musician and poet. He composed some tender pages o f music and published some poems gathered in a book entitled “ R itm i del cuore „ ( R hythm s of thè heart ) w hich are a lyrical expression o f his soul sensitive, ingenuous and tenderly good.
S eein g beauty, he represented it on his canvas * w ith subtleness and touches o f colours, and at thè same time w ith thè human side o f life portrayed. Naturalness and spontaneity gave his w o rk unity of expression w ith a technical skill that, although used w ith w ise mastery, disappeared to become incarnate in thè form o f thè picture. S o rose on his canvas
thè many beautiful young girls and women, some talking, some sm iling and some w rapped in thought.
He did not forget his beloved Am alfi and caught thè beauties o f his native town and o f thè Coast in his landscapes.
A fter long sojourning abroad he carne back to Amalfi for a rest and to draw inspiration for new and better w ork.
He intended to leave for Paris, but at Milan he dreamed that a vip er had bitten him under his foot. T hat dream w as a foreboding o f death, and he departed back to his Naples. Not long after in February 1920 one m orning he died in his sleep.
Naples ( thè town o f his adoption ), Am alfi and all his friends and fellow citizens mourned him.
His handsome figure w ill remain in thè memory o f those w ho knew and loved him.
The follow ing epigraph is on thè w all o f his house.
O ETERNI IN CAN TI DEL MARE A M ALFITA N O CHE CINGETE DI AMORE
QUESTA C A SA OVE NACQUE
P IE T R O S C O P P E T T A
E DI LUI DOLCEMENTE CU LLASTE I PRIMI SOGNI URGENTI DI BELLEZZA
DAI QUALI SORSE
IL MAGISTERO IMPETUOSO DEL SUO PENNELLO SA PPIA T E CULLARE AN CORA PIÙ DOLCEMENTE
IL SOGNO ULTIMO E SENZA FINE
DELLA SU A PU RA E GRANDE ANIMA DI A R T IS T A ADDORM ENTATASI PER SEMPRE
A D U LTA NELL’ ARTE ANCORA FAN CIU LLA NELLA V IT A
SU LLA SOGLIA DELLA GLORIA.
( O eternai charms o f thè Am alfitan sea - that surround with love - this house w here w as born - Pietro Scoppetta - that sw eetly cradled - his prim evai dreams eager o f beauty - from w hich rose thè rushing m astery o f his brush - can you cradle stili more sw eetly - thè last hidden and endless dream - o f thè pure and great soul o f this artist - fallen for ever asleep - adult in A r t - yet childlike in life - on thè threshold o f g lo ry ).
#
* *
A n to n io R occo. Am alfi is proud o f him not only for his excellent A rt, but also for his ardent love for thè divine Am alfi, w hich lives again in his splendid canvas abroad in B razil.
In 1927 his great picture “ O dalisca „ gained thè gold medal in thè national competition of painting held at thè Salone o f R io de Janerio. Last year he attained thè first rank am ong thè painters w ho exhibited their pictures at thè Palazzo delle
Arcades at St. Paul reaching thè highest num ber
several Brazilian newspapers w hich exalt R occo ’s art with w ise criticism. I hope I do not w ea ry thè kind reader in translating here on ly two short passages from “ Fanftilla „ on March i st 1929 “ My dear! T h e world is full of excellent but unlucky painters. T his shows that if a picture fìnds no purchaser no one need reckon it inartistic for thè fault may lie with thè people w ho do not under- stand or w ill not understand. But for Rocco w e find thè tw o elements united: excellence on thè painter ’s side and thè “ animus sapiendi „ on thè purchaser ’s side „ . T he same w riter concludes. “ R occo is com plete. One needs only to look at his pictures to realize this. E very thing is there: landscape, figure, crowd, portrait, stili Nature, darkness, sun, m orning, moun tain, ocean. A ll. A lso thè technique is varied, and one great and sensitive soul. T h e soul o f R occo is all in that dramatic movement o f thè great picture
“ Miners „ which is a master - piece o f su ggestive
beauty „ .
R occo is a disciple of Morelli and Palizzi thè leaders of thè glorious Neapolitan School and now carries on w orthily thè name o f his famous masters.
Since 1913 he has lived at St. Paul, but his triumphs do not diminish his deep longin g for his native country.
* * *
Ignazio Lucibello. Is a y o u n g painter w ho as
for A rt. In fact he has revealed him self in his w o rks as an artist o f agreeable subjects. T h e beauties, thè lights, thè shades and thè harm ony o f thè C oast shine in his pictures. He can express e ve ry mood that Nature or Inspiration reveal to him with harmonious and delicate colours g iv in g his w orks thè attraction o f poetry.
He has sent pictures to exhibitions elsew here and has had tw o personal exhibitions, one in S icily, thè other in Am alfi. His study along thè road that leads to thè Hotel Cappuccini deserves mention here.
*
* *
G iovann i Anastasio - W ith a great regret w e record thè art o f this painter who died so young. He exhibited landscapes several times and thè last time at thè “ Promotrice „ o f Naples. He w as also an excellent caricaturist.
The Cathedral
Interior, bronze doors, facade, atrium , crypt.
T h e Cathedral once occupied thè centrai place of thè town, but now it is nearer thè sea, for a part o f thè town w as sw allow ed up by thè sea in 1343. Hence it signifies thè size o f thè thè ancient Amalfi to a certain extent. (*)
T he origin o f this gorgeous church shining with gold and mosaics is lost in obscurity. Q uite certainly it was built with two naves and dedicated to thè Assumption of O u r Lady, and in 987 w as enlarged to three naves by D oge Mansone III. Hence it witnessed all thè vicissitudes in thè life o f thè Republic.
T w o centuries later (1203) Cardinal Pietro C a puano rebuilt it in thè Byzantine style, adorning it with m arble and fine mosaics, adding thè atrium and thè crypt, w here thè body o f S. A n drea w as carefu lly laid under thè high aitar.
T h e illustrious Matteo Cam era g iv es thè fo l low ing description of thè Cathedral of that period.(**) (*) See pag. 18.
“ In thè centrai nave thè high aitar rose like a tribune ( almost in thè centre of thè actual presby- tery) covered w ith a small marble covered dome and adorned with p orp h yry columns o f veined marble. T h e sym bols o f thè four E vangelists w ere above and around am ong fine mosaics. T h e p u lp itfo r th e reading o f thè gospel and thè ambo for thè reading o f thè epistle w ere on each side o f thè tribune, both in marble and adorned with mosaics. T h e A rchbishop ’s trhone w as small and simple according to thè custom o f that time. T h e ancient legend told that thè p orph yry pile in one piece, then and even now used as a baptismal font, w as near thè pulpit. T h e sem icircular apse w ith thè p resb ytery w as at thè end o f thè aisle and a h alf length gold figure o f thè Redeem er, enriched w ith v e ry fine mosaics, shone w ith such splendour that it w as seen from e very part o f thè church.
Beneath w ere thè busts o f thè titular saints, divided from each other b y thè branch o f thè palm tree, coloured in green. A lo n g range o f historic gothic w indow s, adorned w ith small columns and stained glass surmounted thè m arvellous monument,,.
Subsequently in 1526 and 1564 thè Cathedral threatened to fall and w as restored, and another restoration took place w ith som e disfigurements. But thè defacer o f thè magnificent cathedral w as A rchbishop M ichele Bologna, w ho, presum ptuous and ignorant, transform ed thè inside o f t'ne fine church
into thè style of that time spending his riches for fifteen years. He walled in thè elegant and slender doublé row s o f columns with big pillars (*) overlaid with precious marble, co verin g and destroying altars, noble chapels, statues, frescoes, mosaics, all that was ancient and beautiful with a mania for renew ing and fitting them into thè style o f his time.
But even stili thè cathedral is majestic and splendid in thè baroque style.
Fortunately thè construction o f thè present cathedral is stili that o f thè i3 tu century in thè form of a cross, (**) and o f that glorious century there remain thè two large and fine Egyptian columns at thè entrance o f thè presbytery, thè pile in one piece o f porphyry standing in thè chapel near thè entrance of thè righ t nave ( stili used for a baptistery) and thè bronze doors.
T h e bronze doors in thè centrai entrance w ere cast in Constantinople and w rou gh t with traces of silver b y Sim eone di C iria at thè expense o f Pantaleone Com ite. A b bot D esiderio, w ho carne to Am alfi in 1062 to purchase gifts to present to
(*) To ascertain tlie ex isten ce o f tlie colum ns -svitimi e a eli p illar a tr ia l w as m ade on tlie first p illa r near th è p u lp it by nn- coverin g a part o f th è h id den colum n and th is is s tili v isib le. (**) X early a ll churohes o f th è ascetic 13th cen tury had tho form
H enry IV, took them as a pattern for those o f M ontecassino w hich in fact w ere cast in 1066. (*)
O n thè front o f thè bronze doors o f Am alfi are to be seen thè efiìgies o f Jesus C h rist and O ur L ad y carved w ith silver outlines, and underneath those o f S. A n d rea and S. Pietro.
B elow is written thè follow in g inscription in silver letters:
H oc o p u s A n d r e n e m e m o r i c o n s i s t i t e f f e c t u s
Pa n t a t e o n i s b i s o n o r e a u c t o r i s STUDIIS U T PRO GESTIS SU CCED AT G R A TIA CULPIS.
(T h is w o rk is dedicated by thè donor to Andrea, w ho is mindful of us, to gain forgiveness for all his faults.)
A b ove a silver embossed cross is written: H oc OPUS FIERI JUSSIT PRO RENDEMTIONE ANIMjE
m ìe Pa n t a l e o f i l i u s Ma u r i d e Pa n t a l e o n e d e Ma u r o
DE MaURONE COMITE.
(T h is w ork w as done at thè expense o f Panta leone a son o f Mauro o f Pantaleone of Mauro of Maurone comite for thè redemption o f his soul.)
O rig in ally there w as another silver cross on thè opposite side w ith thè initials o f Sim eone de Siria, believed to have been stolen b y a vandal.
T h e facade o f thè cathedral fell in 1861, and thè illustrious archtect Enrico A lb in o rebuilt it. T h e m arvellous picture o f thè Assum ption and thè mosaic o f St. A n d rew in thè sesto acuto atrium are
thè w o rk of Morelli, w ho painted also thè figures o f thè tw elve apostles and thè picture o f thè prostrate Elders before thè throne o f O u r Lord, described in thè A p ocalypse o f St. John, that w ere reproduced in mosaics by Salviati o f Venice, and are now shining and luminous on thè magnificent facade, M orelli ’s pictures are kept in thè red room o f thè Tow nhall. Morelli was assisted b y Paul V etri, w ho has now w orthily completed thè frescoes above thè w alls o f thè A trium .
T h e crypt built at thè expense o f Pietro C a puano was adorned w ith frescoes and pictures at thè expense of thè K in gs Philip II and Philip III of Spain. T h e latter erected thè monumentai bronze statue of St. Andrew , a much esteemed w o rk exec- uted by M ichelangelo Naccherino. T h e statue w as blessed and inaugurated in 1604. It is flanked b y two o f Pietro Bernini 's statues, St. L aw ren ce and St. Stephen. Fontana, father and son, thè builders of thè R o yal Palace of Naples, w orked for thè restoration of thè crypt and V in cenzo D ’Am ato of S ca la painted thè frescoes.
It w as during thè w ork o f restoration that mason Scipione Cretella, in d ig gin g a w all for thè chapel ordered b y Philip II, discovered a marble (*) The fresco above th è door o f thè organ represents th è solemn carryin g in to th è cryp t o f th è u n i con tain in g th è bod y o f St. A ndrew . The bearers are a ll vested in m itres.
vase (*) containing a fine head and some bones. A cross and thè follow in g inscription “ Hoc S . And- reae Apostoli „ w ere carved outside it. T h at hap- pened on January 8, 1603. T h e A rchbishop o f Am alfi, G iulio Rossino, ordered it to be buried again for he w as afraid such a treasure m ight be stolen. O n ly cn January 2Sth, 1846 thè vase with its precious contents and an entry signed by G iulio Rossino and other officers l'elating thè fact w as rediscovered. T h e churches o f all thè D iocese of Am alfi commemorate this event w ith thè name “In venzione del Capo dell’A postolo S. Andrea,,.
T o day thè back of thè skull is kept locked up in a recess behind thè aitar. T h e front is kept at Rom e by thè Ho’ y S ee w ith other relics.
T h e rem ainder of thè body is interred under thè high aitar o f thè crypt. Cardinal Capuano divided thè sacred body hiding a part for he w as afraid o f ro'qbery, and so that if a part w as stolen thè rest remained for thè veneration o f thè Amalfi-
tan people.
Iiì3 Campanile
T h e campanile by thè side o f thè cathedral w as begun in 1180 and finished in 1276 at thè expense (*) Tlie vase is n ow graftod on tho w a ll on tlie r ig ’it o f tlie
of Filippo A u gustariccio. It is in Byzantine style and rises gracefu lly into thè air. T h e same arch- bishop endowed it w ith a large and sweet toned bell that stili calls thè faithful to thè services with its m usical and majestic toll. A lso it reminds us of Am alfi ’s glorious history, for more than once thè Am alfitans had to entrench them selves within thè campanile and, taking courage, assail their enemies again.
T h e campanile w as several times restored and not alw ays artistically, but is stili an imposing and fine monument.
The Chiostro Paradiso
Is thè ancient cem etery o f Am alfi for nobles and patricians, adjoining thè righ t side o f thè cathe- dral. It w as in disrepair till some years ago, when, at thè expense o f Archbishùp De Dominicis, Archi- tect A v e n a restored it approxim ately to its former condition preservin g many fragm ents and frescoes. T h is i2 th century monument is now seen as described b y Cam era “ A square piece o f ground fenced with a sesto acuto peristyle supported b y small columns, that have thè appearance of a cloister. Around thè w alls there w ere five chapels covered with frescoes. In fact thè chapels stili exist, thè frescoes are desecrated and each reveals thè originai more
beautiful fresco underneath. T h is cem etery w as built at thè charge o f M onsignor Augustariccio, between 1260 and 1268, but, as it stands in thè centre o f thè town, it has been unused, since thè X V Ith century. T h ere are many precious frag- ments o f w rou ght marbles, columns, and mosaics brought there either from thè cathedral during its restorations or from ruined monuments. T h ere are also tw o heathen sarcophagi in bas re lie f taken from Paestum: one represents thè w ed d in g o f Mene- laus and Helen, thè other thè rape of Proserpine.
The Townhall
T h e townhall is a v e ry ancient building and occupies a fine position facin g thè sea. It is sup- posed to have been thè establishm ent o f Am alfi ’s mint in thè old glorious times o f thè Republic. It is now full o f interest for there are to be seen thè great sketches o f Domenico M orelli representing thè tw elve apostles, then St. A n d rew , St. John ’s vision in thè A p ocalypse (Chapter IV th) all reproduced in mosaics on thè facade o f thè Cathedral. T h ere are besides a mosaic portrait of St. A n drew , thè flag o f thè man - o f - w ar “ Am alfi „ sunk during thè last w orld war, and some flags and maritime instruments o f thè dismantled • man - o f - w ar “ F lavio G ioia „.
Museum o f Am alfi. T h ere w ill be kept thè “ T av o la Am alfa „ and thè “ Consuetudini „ that soon are to be given back to Am alfi. (*)
S ev eral o f Pietro Scoppetta ’s pictures and an oil portray o f hiin by thè painter Antonio R occo are preserved in thè Sala Scoppettta. (**)
A w ar - memorial stands in thè Piazza Muni cipio at thè entrance o f thè Tow nhall.
T h e white building, with a steeple, adjoining thè w estern side of thè T ow n h all, w as a Benedctine nunnery built in 1380, now used as a school - building.
The Cimitero
R ises above thè w estern side o f thè A ureo mountain and can at once be distinguished in thè panorama o f thè T ow n for its long set of arches. It w as constructed from thè ruins o f thè nunnery o f S. Lorenzo del Piano, which w as a rich and famous m onastery for noble women.
Towers
T h e T o rre dello Z irro (called also S. Felice) surrounded w ith ruins of embattled w alls rises on
(*) T h ey are now in thè Musoum o f Naplos. (**) See pag. 40.
