Fashion portfolio as a tool for the construction of identity

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journal

Instant

This document will be accessible at

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ISSUE FOUR

PHDBYDESIGN

PRACTICE- BASED RESEARCH

Instant journal (Print)

ISSN 2396-846X

Instant journal (Online)

2 3

FOREWORD

PhD by Design events enable early-career design researchers to explore multiple aspects of practice-based knowledge production. Our main purpose is to create a supportive and engaged environment where researchers share and work through experiences, dilemmas and doubts.

In different institutional settings, the Phd by Design team has been experimenting and testing inventive formats for bringing researchers together to explore emergent topics - such messiness, dissemination, difference, and future of practice-based research. We are committed to building a diverse community of

practice-based design researchers by forming new ramifications and collaborations for each conference and event.

This year, we are thrilled to collaborate with six doctoral students –Amro Yaghi, Aya Musmar, Cagri Sanliturk, Eleni Pashia, John Jeong and Maha Al-Ugaily – from the Sheffield School of Architecture, who through their engagement and energy transformed the conference experience and actively contributed to the PhD by Design platform.

Looking forward to see where this collaborative venture will take us next.

Bianca Elzenbaumer (Leeds College of Art), Alison Thomson and Maria Portugal (Goldsmiths, University of London)

CONTENTS

Local Organising Team Reflection

p. 5

Contributors and Participants

p. 6 - 7

Conference Program

p. 9 - 11

Discussion Sessions 1 - 8

p. 13 - 29

Workshops

p. 31 - 43

Instant Journal Activity

6 7

Carolyn Butterworth Akash Angral Fiona Jane Maclellan Paolo Franzo

Anthony Powis Karolina Szynalska Scott Robinson

Chiara L. Remondino Maha Al-Ugaily Søren Rosenbak Amelia Knowlson Gioia Fusaro Reem Sultan

Barbara Stabellini Katharina Moebus Stacy Hsueh

Claire Evans Maria Cecilia Chiappini Thomas Parsons Annelier Alice De Smet Helen Straadford Roxanne Leitão

Brenda Duggan Lakshmi Srinivasan Silviu Medesan

Danni Kerr Marita Sauerwein Tom Bellfield Ahlam Harahsheh James Craig Sarah Johnson

Caroline Claisse Laura Cushnahan Simon Beeson

Eleni Katrini Nantia Koulidou Yussur Al-Chokhdar

Fadi Shayya Niall Sloane Yusuf Medm Abushama Çağrı Şanlıtürk Aya S. Musmar Amro Yaghi Eleni Pashia Maha Al-Ugaily John Jeong

Ula A.Kalel Merie Kristanti Paramita Dr Cristina Cerulli

Professor Doina Petrescu

Professor Doina Petrescu

Dr. Katie Lloyds Thomas Dr Maria Theodorou Dr Florian Kossak Mark Meagher Dr. Krzysztof Nawratek Dr Nishat Awan Dr Stephen Walker

University of Sheffield The Glasgow School of Art The Glasgow School of Art Iuav University of Venice

University of Westminster University of Cambridge University of London

Politecnico di Torino University of Sheffield Umeå University Sheffield Hallam Univeristy University of Perugia University of Sheffield

Politecnico di Torino University of Sheffield Université Paris-Sud

University of Huddersfield University of Leuven In practice

KU Leuven, Architecture University of Sheffield University of Arts London

Sheffield Hallam University University of Sheffield University of Sheffield

University of Sheffield Delft University of Technology University of Cambridge University of Sheffield Newcastle University Kingston University

Sheffield Hallam Univeristy Ulster University The University of Edinburgh

Carnegie Mellon University Northumbria University University of Sheffield

The University of Manchester University of Brighton University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield University of Sheffield Newcastle University

Leeds Beckett University University of Sheffield

University of Sheffield University of Sheffield

University of Sheffield

The Manchester University University of Sheffield

Helen Stradford

DISCUSSANTS

KEYNOTES

CHAIRS

LOCAL ORGANISING TEAM

PARTICIPANTS

ORGANISING TEAM

Alison Thomson

Maria Portugal

Dr. Bianca Elzenbaumer

Goldsmiths, University of London

Goldsmiths, University of London Leeds College of Arts

CONTRIBUTORS

AND PARTICIPANTS

98 99

The present research investigates the portfolio created by fashion design stu-dents as a tool for the narrative of “self”, a dynamic territory where the in-dividual – author and subject at the same time – define his/her own identity through a personal way of reconstructing his/her own path that works between past, present and future.

The portfolio can be considered not only as a physical object, that many text-books try to analyse and attribute to models to which one should conform, but also as an immaterial territory that relates to the temporal dimension.

The process of portfolio-making consists of all the steps that lead to the selec-tion of materials, a moment that involves memory and past, a phase of connec-tion and narrative of self through the idea of trace and, finally, of projecconnec-tion, where the path one wants to follow is defined by relating the past of memory and the future of promise.

The portfolio is necessarily a dynamic territory, because identity is not a unique and stable construction, it must be continuously renegotiated according to the context. The portfolio is a space that opens a window on other spaces, on the relations that the students establish, the experiences they live; it is the result of confrontations, contrasts and negotiations with all the main characters in-volved in the educational environment.

The research is carried out as a field-work based on ethnographic methodolo-gies in order to verify the topics involved. A selection of degree courses in fashion design are to be considered as case-studies: interviews, on-site observa-tions and focus-groups are to be the tools to study the process of the students’ identity construction through the portfolio, the idea of trace and promise, the narrative of self through the phases of selection, connection and projection.

PhD Candidate at Iuav University of Venice. My research interests are the education of fashion designers, the relations between design and produc-tion in luxury brands, the crafted value of manufacturing and the locations of the Italian fashion sector. Graduated in architecture, I collabo-rate in the teaching activities for the BA and MA degree courses in fashion design and I coordinate the advanced specialisation course in Bag design & Accessories development in collabora-tion with Bottega Veneta.

Iuav University of Venice

paolofranzo@iuav.it

ABSTRACT

BIO

PAOLO FRANZO

Fashion portfolio as a tool for the construction of identity