British Fish

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Lady&Mister Chef

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British fish

BASS

Four people can dine very well on the delicate flesh of one whole fish.

BEST WAY TO COOK: if not too big (up to 1 kg), grill or barbecue it. Bake larger fish or poach steaks and fillets.

Serve with hollandaise sauce.

AVAILABLE: all year, best from August-March.

BREAM

Black and red sea bream are the most common.

BEST WAY TO COOK: grill whole (slash both sides to let the heat penetrate) or in steaks. Alternatively, bake or coat with well-seasoned flour and fry in oil. Red bream is good with fennel.

AVAILABLE: all year, best auturmn/winter.

COD

A huge cold water fish (up to 36 kg in weight), once a staple of the fish industry. Over-fishing has depleted stocks.The cod’s white flesh comes in large, meaty flakes and its roe (smoked) can be used to make taramasalata. Dried cod (stockfish) is highly prized, especially by the French (who call it morue séchée) and the Portuguese (who call it bacalhau).

BEST WAY TO COOK: poach, bake, grill or fry. Excellent (alone or with other fish) in fish pies and fishcakes, it marries welI with tomato salsa, a tangy cheese sauce or a classic tartare sauce. Mediterranean cooks may poach a whole cod, weighing up to 1 kg and serve it with a garlic mayonnaise.

AVAILABLE: all year, best in winter.

COLEY

An underrated fish, also called coalfish because its flesh is grey. Rub the flesh with a cut lemon to help it whitening during cooking.

BEST WAY TO COOK: use to build out fish pies, soups and fishcakes or serve with a spicy salsa.

AVAILABLE: all year.

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Lady&Mister Chef

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Not nearly as interesting as red mullet.

BEST WAY TO COOK: barbecue whole over charcoal or bake, stuffed with herbs, garlic and onions.

HADDOCK

A firm texture. Available fresh or smoked. Go for the grey yellow smoked variety rather than the dyed, egg yolk coloured version. Known as Finnan Haddock when cold smoked on the bone.

BEST WAY TO COOK: treat as cod. Good in batter and deep-fried. A mixture of fresh and smoked is good in fish pies or fishcakes. Omelette Arnold Bennett is made with smoked haddock in a light cream sauce. American fish chowder features cod or haddock.

AVAILABLE:all year, best May-February.

HAKE

Part of the cod family, but smaller,with few bones.

BEST WAY TO COOK: dip in beaten egg and

breadcrumbs and pan fry or coat in batter and deep fry.

Alternatively, bake or poach and serve with spinach or sorrel and cream. Avoid frozen hake.

AVAILABLE: best June-March.

HUSS

Also known as dogfish, this largish fish is similar to a shark.

BEST WAY TO COOK: deep fry in batter, shallow fry with garlic and butter or grill with herbs and serve with a hot chilli salsa or herby mayonnaise.

AVAILABLE: all year, fresh or frozen.

JOHN DORY

The dark ‘fingerprints’ on the side of the fish are said to be those of St. Peter. Very good if wild; farmed fish can taste muddy.

BEST WAY TO COOK: bake or poach whole, or fry fillets gently in butter or grill lightly.

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Because it is so ugly, the fishmonger usuaily removes the head. The French call it crapaud (toad) or diable de mer (sea devil). The flesh is white with a rich flavour.

BEST WAY TO COOK: buy a tail end (1 kg for four people) and either roast whole or poach. The flesh is dense so allow longer than usual for cooking.

Alternatively, split and flatten the tail and grill on an oiled griddle or barbecue.

RED MULLET

A Mediterranean fish with a fairly strong flavour. Ask the fishmonger to scale it for you.

BEST WAY TO COOK: grill over charcoal with fennel or dill, or bake. Use in fish pâtés.

AVAILABLE: in summer.

WHITING

This small, round fish is onIy worth eating if it is realIy fresh.

BEST WAY TO COOK: use in fishcakes or mousses. Fry fillets in beaten egg and breadcrumbs. Use in fish soups or pies.

AVAILABLE: June-February.